Proud new owner. Have questions.

[bailey]

Hello everyone. I am now the proud owner of 1.0 100% Citrus Fire and Ice beardie. He's healthy as a whip but seems very stressed out from being shipped. Perhaps I have not been thorough enough with my research although I have meticulously studied all recommended reading and much much more. (The Bearded Dragon Manual by Vosjoli.) We are offering him a choice of chow and fresh greens. We are going to offer crickets tomarrow and mini mealies when the worm bowl arrives. (Hopefully Tuesday.) I am following the instructions of my breeder to the T but I have a few questions because caresheets can somtimes be vague.

1. How is my dragon supposed to acclimate if I'm always having to open and close the tank and reach in and out to mist and place food and fresh water in his enclosure?

2. He doesn't seem to be drinking the water I am spritzing him with. When I mist my dragon am I supposed to remove him from his enclosure to keep the sand from becoming saturated? I was under the impression that handling is a no-no for 2 weeks minimum. We prefer to give our animals 4 weeks.

I apoligize for the extra long post but I want to know everything I can to keep this animal at the quality I keep my others. His temperatures are perfect, he is getting plenty of uvb, he is basking and eating some of his chow and greens but still seems to have darkened drastically from yesterday when he arrived. Forgive me if I'm jumping the gun because I know it's still early but I do not want to take any chances of losing this animal. Thank you very much for all of your replies.
Bama Choice Herps

[beardiedragon]

I do not recomend mealies especially to babies. They are hard to digest. If you want to give worms, supers are better but silkies are best.

Why are you always reaching in? I bathe babies for 10 minutes about an hour after lights on. the cage is cleaned while they are bathing. When they go back in, they get fed. In the early afternoon they get their greens or pellets and poop is cleaned out. late afternoon feeding is done at least 2 hours before lights out. Right before lights out, make sure there are no crix in the cage. Short and sweet.

Do not use sand with BDs under 12" to reduce chances of impaction.

[bailey]

We made several modifications to his setup today. I bathed him and held him while my husband worked on his cage. We took out the sand and put him on paper towels, took out the water bowl and moved a climbing branch to the cool end. He seems pleased with it and his color seems to be coming back brightly. Thanks for the reply.

[atw]

1.

Don't worry about it. I would remove the water because it is a pain to change and I have never seen them drink from a dish. They will also get liquid from their food.

2.

I would not remove him. The water will dry up and they will get almost everything they need in terms of moisture from their food. I only mist when they are about to shed and they are doing fine. In terms of greens the beardie may refuse them until it is older. Crickets are your best bet.

Check out these caresheets for more food ideas:

http://www.iculizard.com/content/car...ccaresheet.doc
http://www.iculizard.com/content/car.../hatchling.doc

Adam

[bailey]

Thanks Adam. I've noticed he only picks at his greens. He seems to like to be misted whether in his cage or in my hand. He's really doing much better and looking brighter by the day.

[oliver]

1.DONT BE IN AND OUT OFF HIS CAGE.
2.DONT MIST HIM PUT HIM IN A BATH.
3.TRY MEAL WORMS THEY WORK FOR ALLM E BEARDIES.
4.GIVE HIM HIS SPACE.

OLIVER

[Manitoban Herps]

Congrats on the beardie, we need pics!

[bailey]

I'm having a hard time with my cam and he's shedding but i have a roll of 35mm professional being processed now that I'll scan over.