Rubber boa question.

ENSATINA · 08-12-13, 02:36 AM

I bought a captive bred male rubber boa about 3 weeks ago. It is still a juvenile approx 10" long. I keep him in a 20 gal long glass tank with a screen lid. He is in a natural setup to resemble his natural habitat. The substrate is forest topsoil on gravel for drainage. Some oak/pine leaf littler, a rock wall with alot of cracks and crevices for hiding and a rotting Jeffrey pine log. Every time I have encountered them in the wild the have been in pine forests so I don't think the oils in the needles hurt them. I have offered him 2 pinky mice since I got him and he hasn't eaten either one. Is this normal? Is there usually some sort of acclimation period they go through? Thank you.

formica · 08-12-13, 07:09 AM

pine in a glass tank is not the same as pine in an open forest, the chemicals build up to toxic levels inside an enclosure

how often have you handled him since getting him? how long did you give him to settle into his new enclosure before handling him? what temperatures does he have access to? how is the enclosure heated? whats the humidity?

poison123 · 08-12-13, 09:04 AM

How sure are you that its CB? Who was the breeder?

rocknhorse76 · 08-12-13, 10:46 AM

That sounds like a really nice setup for him. What are the temps and humidity that you keep him at? They are native to where I'm from up in WA state, so I know that they can withstand pretty cold temps.
Hmmmm....now you have me wanting a rubber boa!!

rocknhorse76 · 08-12-13, 10:52 AM

Oh, and remember to keep the cage at room temps (70-75 degrees) during the day. It can go down to about 65 or so at night. The hot spot should be under 90 degrees, preferably closer to 80. Depending on where you live, ambient humidity will be fine if you provide a moist hiding spot and let him burrow. Give him a week or so before attempting to feed him again, and a week between feedings, whether they are successful or not.

poison123 · 08-12-13, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocknhorse76

Oh, and remember to keep the cage at room temps (70-75 degrees) during the day. It can go down to about 65 or so at night. The hot spot should be under 90 degrees, preferably closer to 80. Depending on where you live, ambient humidity will be fine if you provide a moist hiding spot and let him burrow. Give him a week or so before attempting to feed him again, and a week between feedings, whether they are successful or not.

I gotta ask, where is this info coming from?

ENSATINA · 08-12-13, 05:33 PM

I haven't handled him once only to put him in the enclosure. Ill change the leaf litter when I get home. The three weeks I've had him is the time he has had to settle in. The humidity is probably 40% but that's going from the gauge I have on my window. It is heated with a 75w spot lamp. Warm side 78f his morning, cool side 69f. Sounds like info from Rubberboas.com. Thanks for the replies.

ENSATINA · 08-13-13, 06:39 PM

No thoughts on what the problem could be?

marvelfreak · 08-13-13, 06:56 PM

Could we see pictures of the set up?

As for the not eating just leave him be for a week and try again. If he doesn't eat wait another week then try once more. Don't handle him until he takes a couple meals for you. Once he settled in and is hungry enough he'll eat for you.

ENSATINA · 08-14-13, 10:58 AM

I will post pictures tonight. Ill try feeding another pinky today also.

StudentoReptile · 08-14-13, 05:12 PM

Here's a trick: rubbers naturally find their prey (nestling mice pinks and lizards) buried in substrate or in a nest. If you lay a pink out in the open, they'll ignore it. Take some moss and substrate, and make a little "nest" about the size of your thumb, "hide" the pink in it, and leave the snake alone in its enclosure. See if he takes it then.

Again, how do you know this animal is CB? Also, if they are truly reluctant, you can try to "assist" feed them as an absolute last resort; not quite as stressful of cramming the prey down the snake's throat, but just opening the jaws, insertng the pink and setting it into its teeth, then release and let the snake be in a dark place. I've had success with this in the past as well.

**Aaron_S** · 08-14-13, 05:48 PM

I've read from someone who has successfully bred them that it takes a full brumation after being born before they eat. I don't think this is the case here though.

Student would be correct about the nesting thing.

One way I was able to get reluctant calibar burrowing pythons (or are they boas. I can't remember) was to place a few live pinks in a low dish burrowed into the substrate itself. I'd then place some of the substrate in the bowl to simulate the burrow as well. These were adults and they ate like this.

I used aspen as bedding.

poison123 · 08-14-13, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

One way I was able to get reluctant calibar burrowing pythons (or are they boas. I can't remember)

Lmao. I've seen people lable them as pythons and boas but they lay eggs so I guess python.

drewkore · 08-16-13, 11:56 AM

Just to be sure, you are aware that rubbers have a reputation for being difficult feeders right?

simpleyork · 08-16-13, 08:11 PM

heres one of my babies, they are so much fun!!!

the pickier ones I will place live mice under bark to get them started on eating. The rest I feed F/T in a feeding container so I know who gets what. Never had issues getting the little ones to start eating. I keep mine on top soil/ bark from the canyon . They are kept at room temp. I've found these guys crawling across roads with air temps at around 59 F. and ground temps in the low 60's.

Anyway Hope it eats for you soon!!!