What surface temp is too hot for snakes?

iBaman · 12-02-12, 01:50 PM

So i've been having issues with heating pajamas' tank, as it's getting colder and his heat mat is a piece of poop. The mat keeps his cage to 80 on the hot side, so I have a CHE on a dimmer to raise that to 90-92. the glass feels warm to the touch, but my thermometer doesn't get good surface temps. I've been checking for burns and redness, but there isn't any so far...so the question as posted is: at what SURFACE temp do you start to worry?

Gungirl · 12-02-12, 02:38 PM

Get a temp gun.. check it out and set it so that the mat is at the hottest temp he is safe to be at. If the glass feels warm it is probably to hot.. your body is 98 average. So to feel warm to you it would most likely be 100+...

I don't know pajamas' husbandry needs so I can't tell you how hot to set it to..

iBaman · 12-02-12, 02:46 PM

i've got a temp gun, but it doesn't like surface temps for some reason =/ sometimes it says 104, other times it'll be around 95 or so...also, my hands are always cold, so warm to me is relative xD only reason I'm using the CHE is because his heat mat is super ghetto...it's set to 91 with a thermostat (hydrofarm), and it only ever gets up to 83 without the che. this is fairly temporary as well, until his monster cage is done (i'll have flexwatt in there)

Gungirl · 12-02-12, 02:59 PM

I would buy a new heat mat then.. Most likely your temp gun is right and your heat mat is faulty. I would never run a faulty heat unit for any reason no matter what.

iBaman · 12-02-12, 03:06 PM

nooo, the glass the che is pointing at (around 5-6" away) says 104 or 95. when i do the heat mat, it's always around 83, which i'm fine with for now. the che is pointing at the tstat probe as well, so that the mat turns off once it hits 92. here's a (horrid) pic of how it's set up:

all I'm worried about is how warm the glass could get.

(also, the condensation is because he keeps spilling his water bowl....)

nick654377 · 12-02-12, 03:17 PM

I personally wouldnt run the che like that. Your cooking the glass. Id be scared. Just me. Also an infared gun will not read temps on glass because the beam goes through the glass and gets all messed up. Do not know the science behind it but you will never get an accurate reading on glass

iBaman · 12-02-12, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nick654377

I personally wouldnt run the che like that. Your cooking the glass. Id be scared. Just me. Also an infared gun will not read temps on glass because the beam goes through the glass and gets all messed up. Do not know the science behind it but you will never get an accurate reading on glass

That makes way more sense. I was wondering why it wouldn't get a good temp xD the CHE is far enough away that it isn't cooking the glass, and it's actually turned down quite a bit (it's on a dimmer). I know at this distance, it'll be fine, it's just when it's right up close that you risk cracking the glass (trust me...i'm a pro at destroying glass with che's...all a part of the learning process xD)

reptileexperts · 12-02-12, 03:36 PM

Go to home depot and get some ceramic tile squares, you can get individual tiles usually, If you need to create a basking spot like this, I'd avoid using glass and use ceramic to hold the heat.

Hydrofarm is a nice t-stat for limited use - the main problem with it is that it sways a ton! if you're set point is 92, it will heat till 94-95, and then turn off till 89-90. Also the thermometer on it is not always accurite!! So be careful, use your temp gun to read what the probe says and compare that number to your hydrofarm to see what level of accuracy you're actually getting.

Retics like it generally warm, and keeping it around 92-94 for a basking area is fine. I keep my tics basking spot at 91 consant with either Flexwat for the younger ones in tubs, and Radiant Heat Panels for the adult. These are mantained with a herpstat 1 on each set up, with a herpstat 2 on my main large wall.

Also - if and when you get a ceramic tile in place, you will be able to read surface temperatures on it. I would not allow surface temperatures to exceed 95 degree, and also make sure your ambient background temperatures do not start going above maybe 82, since you've added another heat source it's something to consider as well.

Good luck!

iBaman · 12-02-12, 03:45 PM

awesome, thanks reptileexperts! i'm currently working on his wooden viv that i'll be putting ceramic tiles in. i just want his tank to stay warm enough for him until i can get it finished xD i had my boyfriend feel it for warmth, and he says it's barely warm to touch to him, so i'm a little more at ease. I check on him every hour to make sure he's not turning red or anything...he seems to really like the heat right there xD

Terranaut · 12-02-12, 04:20 PM

I have 3 Hydrofarms and love them. sure they sway a bit but I hear nature does too

Also they click very loud when switching on/off but mine are in a dedicated room so it's not a worry. The temp variaitons make your snake search around for the perfect spot more often which is excercise and good for them. I use RHP's for heat in all the enclosures with them and it's a near perfect setup. Basking area is great as well as ambiant air temps within the enclosure. Considering you can buy a Hydrofarm and an RHP for the cost of most reptile thermostats its a great choice. I would never run a setup like what you have now. Also I don't see any hides in your photo? You need a warm and cool hide along with a background of some sort to block out 3 sides of view from your snake. It makes them way more secure.
Good luck with your build.We love pics!!

iBaman · 12-02-12, 04:24 PM

retics are a little different...there aren't any hides big enough for him right now, and he sits on top of them anyways xD i had newspaper in there, but he spilled his water bowl and i had to take it out. the set up right now is temporary. I cannot stress this enough. the wires in there are the hydrofarm probe (which the che is pointing at) and regular temp probes.

Terranaut · 12-02-12, 04:43 PM

My boas are the same but I have hides for them just the same. I used dollar store litter boxes and cut a hole in the side. My boas are much bigger than your retic (for now

)

iBaman · 12-02-12, 05:37 PM

litter boxes don't fit in this enclosure....most retic owners never give theirs a hide. no need for it.

nick654377 · 12-02-12, 05:45 PM

i dont know why i always thought bananas was a burm..... :face palm:

reptileexperts · 12-03-12, 08:55 AM

Yeah gotta back up the OP on this man, the only retics of mine that get hides are the small newer ones. Once they move into adult caging the hides go away simply because he one that I did buy that is large enough that would NOT use it and ended up pushing it all over the cages. So I upgraded my BCI with it and he likes it better than his slightly smaller one. None the less, I dont know of any Retic owners that provide hides other than egg boxes during breeding season . . .

As far the hydrofarm, there is nothing wrong with them but you need to understand their limitations. Again, I have them and use them on QT racks. But my main room is monitored with a good set up of Herpstats if only because I want the dimming rather than the "on/off" method of the hydrofarm. They do work, but you must check their probes for inaccuracy to know how to read yours.