Brumation fluctuations

[MouseKilla]

I'm having the same issue using a spare bedroom to cool them, sliding the window more or less open depending on how cold it's been in the last couple of days. Here in S. Ontario our weather is so bloody crazy in the winter it's impossible to have anything close to consistent temps. At least those of you on the prairies can rely on a total deep freeze between say Hallowe'en and March. lol! I've been wondering the same things about how cold is too cold for them to survive and how warm is too warm for sperm production and ovulation. This breeding business is stressfull!

[Vanan]

How cold is too cold? I did read somewhere ( can't remember for all I'm worth) that the critical low temps for snakes are around 32F-35F. It varies between each species though. Critical highs are somewhere around 112F-115F. But don't quote me on this and try testing to see if your snakes will brumate at 36F! I did read that in a book but might be off by a bit.

[tai_pan1]

Marissa, I wouldn't worry about those temp fluctuations. In the wild the temps are going to be fluctuating much more than that. Mother nature is wonderful, and has planned in advance for short periods of high and low temps. In my opinion, you don't need to worry about your female ovulating too early unless your temps reach the low 70's for a period of a couple of days or longer. I have no scientific facts to back that up, so if people want to disagree, feel free. Temps into the low 40's and into the low 60's for short periods (a day) are not a problem. Relax, enjoy your time off from feeding and good luck with the mating in the spring.

Mike

[C.m.pyrrhus]

Natural hibernaculum will not necessarily fluctuate that much. In most cases, the area used for brumation is almost at a constant temp. Much like permafrost, the temp stabalizes at a given gradient for a period of time. This is also dependant on what is being used. For montane species lets say, they will find a deep hole, den, etc that will stay above the freezing point during winter. These areas are far from any drafts or rapid temp changes and usually will remain the same temp year round as well. Species that take a short 'nap' through a cold spell or part of the winter will find areas that are more easily acceptable for wider temp gradients. Yet overall, snakes will not choose an area if they feel/know the temps are going to rapidly change on them. Does not make for a good brumation if the temp gradient is to wide. This leaves to much of a risk for them while they are vulnerable to freezing, infection, disease and even predation.

[crimsonking]

Well, down here in FL. I usually have to run an A.C. to get my temps anywhere near 60.F. There are times during the 2 mos. that the temps reach that high, and there are cold nights when the temps near 40F-- I've not lost any snakes and I do save $$ by not feeding. Montane ssp. may benefit from a brumation period (sperm count and/or ovulation) but I have bred successfully pyros and graybands w/no cooling. I would think if you keep them under heated conditions during the year, they would respond to a cool off period. I really think they are quite adaptable and will come around to your seasonal changes and breed successfully. As for the fluctuations-- yours seem to be minor to me.
:Mark

numerous folks double clutch their corns. do you think they throw their animals back into a brumation prior to the second mating? If brumation was "necessary" would the animal be capable of double clutching without it? back up statements with fact.

[Vanan]

Isn't double clutching a result of the onset of ovulation after parturition? Like in most animals which go into heat once giving birth. I think it's more the fact that it just layed/gave birth which set off ovulation rather than just ovulating when it feels like.

BTW, I do agree that brumation isn't necessary to breed alot of the colubrids. Just that I think the double clutching thing isn't a good example.

[rynwilliams]

In the corn manual i have it says you should be aiming for a temp at about 65, bun not to go above 70, mine are around 60-65 and have not lost any visable weight so far (almost 2 months in)