What should I get? - Page 2

dave himself · 12-07-16, 09:02 AM

I can only speak from experience here, our ball python gets way more active when I'm heating his mice on top of his viv. But then again with this being the only time he smells them this could be what's triggering this behaviour off. And once the 2 burms or the retic get a whiff of a rabbit it's game on

**Minkness** · 12-07-16, 09:42 AM

Yup. Maybe it os the lack of rodent smell 90% of the time that when it's feeding night...all eyes are in me lol. Everyone gets restless and stares. I have to be careful with my boa and one of my balls. They get SO eager that I use the door of their enclosure as a shield lol. I can imagine that if it was a regular scent though, they would just get used to it. Though I would worry that it may lower their feed response. Only way to know is to try!

Also, albert has a good point about getting what you want. I was never much into king snakes and got one as my 1st snake because they were so highly recommended. Well, I no longer have that 1st snake....though I do have more kings. It's hard to say if I have a 'favorite'. I love and appreciate them all really. I never thought I'd like BPs, but I have 3 now. They are far from my favorite kund of snake, but I really adore the ones I have. I thought I really loooooved boas, but now that I have 2, I really don't want 'more'. Colubrids are my preference. That's just me though.

So, if you really like pythons or boas, look only into those. There are many kinds! Just do your research. Know their temp, humidity, and dietary needs. And make sure you grill any breeder/seller offering the offball types. Like Solomon island ground boas. They don't normally take to rodents in the wild, but that is what we all choose to feed our snakes.

Be prepared for a possibly picky feeder with some. Hognoses and BPs are known for going off food, sometimes for no reason, or just because their temps are slightly off.

You certainly sound eager and knowledgeable, just be prepared as best you can for those curve balls we all seem to get when we first get into things. Be it for the first time or just again after a long time. Things constantly change after all. =)

Looking forward to whatever you choose though. We looooove pics around here!

AlbyTross · 12-07-16, 11:24 AM

I suppose if the snake acts aggressive then I can always just move 'em downstairs

I have another dumb question: Does a snake NEED a heat lamp or heat pad? (Including both of the because some lizards need light for their skin) My sister's kingsnake used to have a heat lamp, but now she just uses a controlled heat pad on the bottom of one side. Is the "extreme" hotness necessary or is the room temperature being high okay? I have spare heat lamps, so it's no problem, but just curious because I keep my bedroom at about 76-81 F pretty much constantly, for my spiders, so wondering if a heat lamp or pad would be required. Or is it required so they can have a cool and warm side?

**Minkness** · 12-07-16, 12:14 PM

A light isn't required. They don't need uv or 'extreme' heat like some lizards. Depending on the type of snake you get they will most likely need belly heat, so a UTH with a tstat is suggested. Some species do better with only a high ambient heat though. My ridleyi and pits have no heat of their own because the air temps are ideal and they have other tanks heat near enough to them. In fact, my baby pit refused to heat because I was keeping him too hot and I am about to move my gopher to another shelf because the heat coming into her cage from my boa's cage is a bit higher than she likes it.

Just research the individual animal you are interested in and then do your best.

I had heat on ALL of mine but it was causing issues since even low heat put some off their food (like my ridleyi and pits). So it's also a learning process even if you read all the information lol.

sockSnek · 12-07-16, 08:17 PM

If you're asking if you need some kind of heat source at all, then yes. Snakes need the higher temps to digest properly and a temperature gradient so they can thermoregulate as they need.

**Minkness** · 12-07-16, 08:43 PM

The the ambient temps the OP already posted, it really depends on the type of snake if they need extra heat beyond that. Again, my Ridleyi, gopher,and depi will refuse food if too warm. All 4 of these snakes have been wothout 'extra' heatand have been healtheir, more active, and more reliable feeders sonce the added heat was removed. All are kept at an ambient between 78-84 since my whole reptile room runs a bit hot (and why I removed my cresties and gargs and they nnow reside in my comfortable 72° bedroom).

Knowing the animal one is getting is more important than following the 'average basics'.

sockSnek · 12-07-16, 08:53 PM

Ok, guess I'm wrong then. This is the first I've heard of someone not using extra heat.

**Minkness** · 12-07-16, 09:06 PM

It's only because the ambient is high enough to aid in digestion. This usually only works with certain colubrids who naturally have a higher metabolism. Thicker snakes lie most boas and pythons require that extra heat to help digestion. But even then it still depends. High heat is still bad for Brazilian rainbows for instance. They may still require belly heat because ambients would have to be kept cool. So a UTH set at about 80-84 is good for belly heat but ambients still need to be lower than 75 (i think, someone correct me if these temps are wrong). But other boas like a hypo mutt (like mine) actually need pretty high heat. So he has a UTH at 95 wgich keeps his ambient in that high 70s low 80s that's perfect for him. But do that to a BRB and it will die. Some members here have lost a BRB or had one get super sick due to a heatwave.

That all being said though, bot all colubrids are tue same. I have UTHs on my hognoses set higher than most care sheets recomend but since raising theor heat, they have become excellent feeders vs when they were set at the 'suggested' temps. Even my kings and corn have UTHs set just a smidge higher than 'suggested' and all I get is more active, great feeders.

So just know your animal. Also. Be prepared to test the waters with any new animal. They are all still individuals and while care sheets offer a great BASE of knowledge, your individual animal may prefer warmer or cooler compared to the suggested norm. Be knowledgeable and willing to try things and make it right for that animal and all will be great! =D

AlbyTross · 12-07-16, 09:48 PM

Thank you so much!! I can already tell that people on this forum are much nicer than they are on Arachnoboards, lol (Not that people there are neccasarily "mean", and it is still the best place to learn about arachnids and join discussions, but people care A LOT about their spiders, and some species are very fragile AND expensive, so people are very touchy, ahahah). I can't wait to become well known in the snake world!

MartinD · 12-08-16, 03:50 AM

I often think there is no right or wrong but it's what works for you.

When I first started thinking about reptiles I researched them for about 6 months and decided to start with leopard geckos. The amount of so called 'breeder experts' said 'Don't use sand as a substrate, because this causes impaction', then you read of another 'breeder expert' say 'I've kept geckos on sand for the past 30 years and never lost one to impaction'. This causes a lot of confusion to newbies coming into the hobby.

But if it works for you then go with it and enjoy your animals.

pet_snake_78 · 12-08-16, 09:10 PM

I would suggest you don't buy anything for 6 months, look up all the different species available and sit tight. Searching for "the one" is half the fun.

**Andy_G** · 12-09-16, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sockSnek

Ok, guess I'm wrong then. This is the first I've heard of someone not using extra heat.

There's a few out there. In addition to the ones already mentioned by Mink, a lot of the central america milksnakes (ecuadoran, honduran, black, andean) do quite well without supplemental heat.

OP; I would follow pet_snake_78's advice. Take your time and look around and do lots of research. Buy what appeals to you once you've done so, and we're here if you have questions before or after the fact.

AlbyTross · 12-14-16, 04:35 PM

Now I REALLY am thinking about a Woma. My sister (who owns a kingsnake) also says a Woma would be an awesome snake to have. I think they are a bit pricey? But I have read some great things about them and they have always looked so gorgeous to me. Idk if I'll see one at Repticon, but I definitely will be reading A LOT about them until then

Thatjanelady · 12-16-16, 12:49 PM

If you have the chance, see if you can handle the types of snakes you're interested in beforehand.
Ball pythons are rocks. Colubrids, especially babies are flighty. My sandboas were pretty mellow. My hognose was a pencil sized worm on crack and as an adult was convinced he could eat my TV... Yeah..
It's also what you want to do with this animal in the future, snakes easily living into their teens, life long pet? Maybe one day some day breeding? If breeding, do you want to deal with eggs or prefer live bearing?