First Beardie Questions - Page 3

Lankyrob · 08-21-13, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murrindindi

Hi, the OP has his bulb outside with screen between it and the animal, it`s hardly surprising much of the heat is lost to the room the tank`s in. With a solid top (I presume yours was?) it means you have a "self contained" environment for the most part, and it`s much easier to control the conditions. Unfortunately the OP`s current fishtank is much too small to be using a MVB anyway.

I'll be honest - didn't read tye whole thread, just perked my interest with the claim of temps he was getting.

Totally agree that allt he heat is warming the room rather than the tank, yes mine was in an enclosed vivarium rather than a fish tank

Abraxxos · 08-21-13, 05:26 PM

It just means I'm going to have to get a separate bulb for closer heating. Switched the bulb to a different enclosure - a 6x3x3. Even covered, the temps are still the same. Raising only by 2 degrees which is still not enough. The heat is in the cage, the bulb just isn't providing enough of it. It gives me the UVB I want, it is simply unsatisfactory for heating.

Freebody · 08-21-13, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abraxxos

So the Daytona expo was this weekend and I brought home a little beardie for my boyfriend and I. My good camera is lost somewhere in the abyss of my apartment so I have to deal with cruddy webcam pictures, but it's better than nothing.

Here is the enclosure:

Take note that the heat lamp has been moved closer to the rock structure so it sits near the top.

So, we've named him Tesla and have just a few questions:

His diet: I've picked up crickets and super worms. I picked up calcium dust and vitamin dust. (Vita one day cal the next) I also picked up some beardie pellets just in case. As for veggies I picked up fresh turnip greens and cilantro. Then tomatoes, peaches, cantaloupe, mango, and kiwi for sharing to see what all fruits I can get him to eat. I might be forgetting something, but if you think there's something I need to change, do tell.

His enclosure: He is in a 20 long for now with play sand. The rocks serve as both his hide and his basking spot although there is also adequate space to hide on the cool side under the large artificial plant. This is also where his salad bowl is. His cool side is sitting about 86-90 and his basking spot is about 102-106. At the highest point of pride rock, the temp is hitting about 109. Some people were telling me I need a basking spot between 100 and 110, so I thought this would be a good in between. I'm using a bulb that's both heat and UVB.

I'm currently drawing a blank on other information. If I'm doing something wrong, please tell me. I'm more of a snake person myself and this is going to be my first lizard as well as the boyfriends first reptile. So tips and advice please.

Also, the bulb is a 160 watt (they sold out of the 125 I wanted) and the bulb, if I turn it off, won't turn back on for a while. Is this normal? The bulb also sort of smells like it's burning but I can't see that it is. It's driving me nuts. Any ideas? What should I do? Should I even be worried about it?

cage looks good, everything sounds good,you should get rid of the sand, use paper towel, they sample everything and sand could lead to impaction, i have been reading coiled UV bulbs are terrible for these guys, use UV tubes. heres a great site for which food to feed your beardie.Nutrition Content

murrindindi · 08-22-13, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freebody

cage looks good, everything sounds good,you should get rid of the sand, use paper towel, they sample everything and sand could lead to impaction, i have been reading coiled UV bulbs are terrible for these guys, use UV tubes. heres a great site for which food to feed your beardie.Nutrition Content

Hi, are you kidding, this is a 20 gallon fishtank with a 160w MVB, coolest ambient temps are between 86 to 90f and that in your opinion is "good"?

murrindindi · 08-22-13, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abraxxos

It just means I'm going to have to get a separate bulb for closer heating. Switched the bulb to a different enclosure - a 6x3x3. Even covered, the temps are still the same. Raising only by 2 degrees which is still not enough. The heat is in the cage, the bulb just isn't providing enough of it. It gives me the UVB I want, it is simply unsatisfactory for heating.

Hi again, when you say the top in the 6 x 3 x 3 is covered, is that totally and with what? I still don`t understand how you cannot manage to get the recommended surface temps @ between approx 40 to 43c + using a 160w MVB. Can you show a few photos of the bulb in position? Thanks!

poison123 · 08-22-13, 10:21 AM

What equipment are you using to measure the suface temps? I believe you have said before that you prefer the analogs?

Abraxxos · 08-22-13, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murrindindi

Hi again, when you say the top in the 6 x 3 x 3 is covered, is that totally and with what? I still don`t understand how you cannot manage to get the recommended surface temps @ between approx 40 to 43c + using a 160w MVB. Can you show a few photos of the bulb in position? Thanks!

Well right now it's back on my dragon. The 6x3x3 is my boa enclosure. If I remember, I'll switch it back tonight and let it run a bit after I've turned it off of the beardie. I think I'll be busy tonight though.

The 6x3x3 has the built in light system for screw in lights like this. It hangs straight down.

Either way, I'm grabbing a heat bulb and a hook screw later today so that will fix the problems.

Abraxxos · 08-22-13, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by poison123

What equipment are you using to measure the suface temps? I believe you have said before that you prefer the analogs?

I still have analogs in a few of the tanks, but I've been using a digital hydrometer/thermometer combo and a temp gun for determining surface and ambient temperatures.

Freebody · 08-22-13, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murrindindi

Hi, are you kidding, this is a 20 gallon fishtank with a 160w MVB, coolest ambient temps are between 86 to 90f and that in your opinion is "good"?

well i never heard of a tube uvb/heat bulb to be honest, and a uvb tube i what i said to use, nothing wrong with a 20 gallon "fish tank" more is better but thats fine, its not for snakes which mostly need humidity, last thing you want is humidity for you beardie so its sounds just fine to me, abient temps at 86-90, well thats what you want high side to be honest, get your cool side down to low 80s high 70s would be ideal, but what its at night imho should not cause any ill effects, but this is just what i have read all over the net, to be honest i never read anything about this uvb/heat bulbs, as far as the 160w is concerned get herpstat, or a reostat if you cant afford the herpstat, you can build reostats that work great for cheep, How to make your own Rheostat for less than $7! Detailed instructions. - CornSnakes.com Forums

murrindindi · 08-22-13, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abraxxos

Well right now it's back on my dragon. The 6x3x3 is my boa enclosure. If I remember, I'll switch it back tonight and let it run a bit after I've turned it off of the beardie. I think I'll be busy tonight though.

The 6x3x3 has the built in light system for screw in lights like this. It hangs straight down.

Either way, I'm grabbing a heat bulb and a hook screw later today so that will fix the problems.

Depending on the height of the enclosure, it might be best to just drill a small hole in the top and pass the electric flex through, that way you can raise/lower the bulb `til you get the surface temp you want, rather than fixing it directly to the top.
This is my monitor`s basking site just to give you an idea, I need more bulbs because of his size. The type I use are low wattage halogen bulbs (flood, not spot), they are excellent for creating basking sites, cheap to buy, too. I expect you may only need a 40 to 50w (maybe just the one, perhaps two)?

murrindindi · 08-22-13, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freebody

well i never heard of a tube uvb/heat bulb to be honest, and a uvb tube i what i said to use, nothing wrong with a 20 gallon "fish tank" more is better but thats fine, its not for snakes which mostly need humidity, last thing you want is humidity for you beardie so its sounds just fine to me, abient temps at 86-90, well thats what you want high side to be honest, get your cool side down to low 80s high 70s would be ideal, but what its at night imho should not cause any ill effects, but this is just what i have read all over the net, to be honest i never read anything about this uvb/heat bulbs, as far as the 160w is concerned get herpstat, or a reostat if you cant afford the herpstat, you can build reostats that work great for cheep, How to make your own Rheostat for less than $7! Detailed instructions. - CornSnakes.com Forums

The problem is that when you (not you specifically, just generally speaking) offer someone advise it`s best to be as sure as we can be that the info is accurate, otherwise it can and often will cause some problems to the animal/s in question. The problem with a 20 gallon tank is that it`s extremely difficult to get a decent temp range, as we can see from the OP`s posts.
The MVB`s have a minimum enclosure size and minimum distance from the surface of the bulb to the surface of the animal, they can cause quite serious burns if not set up according to the manufacturers instructions (the 20g is FAR too small).
Contrary to popular opinion, the humidity should range between approx. 30 to 50%+. Unfortunately, many keepers, especially those outside Australia are under the impression that they need virtually no humidity, but that is totally incorrect. So many myths are in place, it makes it so difficult to get the most basic of info across at times.
I hope this reply helps you understand a little better just what these animals require from us in these respects!

Abraxxos · 08-22-13, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murrindindi

Depending on the height of the enclosure, it might be best to just drill a small hole in the top and pass the electric flex through, that way you can raise/lower the bulb `til you get the surface temp you want, rather than fixing it directly to the top.
This is my monitor`s basking site just to give you an idea, I need more bulbs because of his size. The type I use are low wattage halogen bulbs (flood, not spot), they are excellent for creating basking sites, cheap to buy, too. I expect you may only need a 40 to 50w (maybe just the one, perhaps two)?

I bought these enclosures. I'm not big on building/construction projects so... No drilling. Not to mention, as I already said, that bulb does not go in that enclosure. That enclosure is finely managed with a different bulb. I was just popping the UVB in to see it in a non-screen top enclosure.

Abraxxos · 08-22-13, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murrindindi

The problem is that when you (not you specifically, just generally speaking) offer someone advise it`s best to be as sure as we can be that the info is accurate, otherwise it can and often will cause some problems to the animal/s in question. The problem with a 20 gallon tank is that it`s extremely difficult to get a decent temp range, as we can see from the OP`s posts.
The MVB`s have a minimum enclosure size and minimum distance from the surface of the bulb to the surface of the animal, they can cause quite serious burns if not set up according to the manufacturers instructions (the 20g is FAR too small).
Contrary to popular opinion, the humidity should range between approx. 30 to 50%+. Unfortunately, many keepers, especially those outside Australia are under the impression that they need virtually no humidity, but that is totally incorrect. So many myths are in place, it makes it so difficult to get the most basic of info across at times.
I hope this reply helps you understand a little better just what these animals require from us in these respects!

With my current set up, I'm getting a gradient of roughly 40 degrees so if 40 degrees of difference between hot spot and cool spot isn't a good gradient...? That is a perfectly acceptable gradient. A 4 inch lizard does not need a giant enclosure right now and I will upgrade him when he grows and there is nothing wrong with that. Besides, upon reading the bulb instructions, while I read a minimum distance, at no point was there mention of a minimum enclosure size. I have a gradient. I have UVB. I have heat. If there are no other problems with the set up, I think I'm pretty good.

murrindindi · 08-22-13, 05:03 PM

It seems you have all the answers and your conditions/husbandry are perfect, what did you ask advise for in the first place?

Abraxxos · 08-22-13, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murrindindi

It seems you have all the answers and your conditions/husbandry are perfect, what did you ask advise for in the first place?

Well everybody's husbandry will have kinks at some point, like mine just did. It's why I asked. I likely wouldn't have moved the UVB further away if I hadn't asked because I wouldn't have known to.

So, now I'm stepping away from husbandry related questions and going to something else I'm dealing with... Diet. Alright, so I listed off the stuff I've bought him so far and I've got about 4 great nutrition lists here... So I know what to get, now how do I get to him to eat them? He's interested in eating the grass outside when I took him out for pictures which I wouldn't allow much to his dismay and he tried eating the potted plant I had in there, which I promptly removed. However, dispite his obvious attempts to eat some plant matter, he couldn't ignore the veggies I've put in any more than he is right now. Turnip greens, a smidge of cilantro, I tried some tomato. I tried peach, I tried cantaloupe and mango and... This little bugger just doesn't seem interested. I've put it in the bowl and I've put it in front of him. No interest... He's eating crickets just fine but not his veggies. Any ways I could make them more appetizing to him?