[Q] Purchasing the right Thermostat.

ErikBush97 · 07-07-13, 01:59 AM

If you don't want to read my whole life story for two questions, skip to the bold/underlined area.
Hello, everyone. It's a pretty small community, so I am sure I don't have to tell you that I haven't bought a thermostat yet. I finally have the cash and I am ready to buy a thermostat. I was wondering if they made one that you could hook multiple UTH's/Lamps into so you don't have to pay twice as much to heat two terrariums/tubs/etc. I asked a friend and she said that they DO make ones like that. After looking on eBay for like.. 10 seconds I found one for $19.99. The only thing I noticed.. Why is there multiple plug-ins but there's only one probe? How does it make sure each tank/tub is at the right heat? Also... The two animals I am buying one for are my corn snake and my ball python. Those animals have different needs.. different by 5-10 degrees. (I personally keep my BP at 95 on the hot side, and 75 on the cool side, and my corn at 85 on the hot side and 73 on the cool side). so would 90 degrees be a suitable in between point for the animals? and before you say "no! 90 is too hot for a colubrid", I have a question... If the snake was getting hot, wouldn't it just move back to the cool side?... Anyways, I am getting off track. The real question(s) here are;
1. Why is there multiple plug-ins but there's only one probe on some thermostats?
2. What is/is there a suitable in between temp (maybe 90??) for a corn snake and a BP so I am not spending more money than I have available/not spending more money than I need to?

and that's about it...

Mikoh4792 · 07-07-13, 02:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ErikBush97

If you don't want to read my whole life story for two questions, skip to the bold/underlined area.
Hello, everyone. It's a pretty small community, so I am sure I don't have to tell you that I haven't bought a thermostat yet. I finally have the cash and I am ready to buy a thermostat. I was wondering if they made one that you could hook multiple UTH's/Lamps into so you don't have to pay twice as much to heat two terrariums/tubs/etc. I asked a friend and she said that they DO make ones like that. After looking on eBay for like.. 10 seconds I found one for $19.99. The only thing I noticed.. Why is there multiple plug-ins but there's only one probe? How does it make sure each tank/tub is at the right heat? Also... The two animals I am buying one for are my corn snake and my ball python. Those animals have different needs.. different by 5-10 degrees. (I personally keep my BP at 95 on the hot side, and 75 on the cool side, and my corn at 85 on the hot side and 73 on the cool side). so would 90 degrees be a suitable in between point for the animals? and before you say "no! 90 is too hot for a colubrid", I have a question... If the snake was getting hot, wouldn't it just move back to the cool side?... Anyways, I am getting off track. The real question(s) here are;
1. Why is there multiple plug-ins but there's only one probe on some thermostats?
2. What is/is there a suitable in between temp (maybe 90??) for a corn snake and a BP so I am not spending more money than I have available/not spending more money than I need to?

and that's about it...

1. I do not know why, but after having a similar discussion on this forum, I've agreed with other posters that each heat source should have it's own probe. With my helix thermostat it only has one probe but 3 plugs. I use it only for one heat source which is the heat tape for my racking system.

I think it was meant to be used to heat multiple heat sources that are all the same. For example three 8 watt under tank heaters or three 40 watt light bulbs. However, if the one heating the probe fails, the other two heat sources run at full power which could end up killing the other two animals.

2. I've already said why I wouldn't do it but if I did do that, I would place an extra hide for the animal which needs lower temperatures. For example for the corn I would place an extra hide where it can get to the high 80's instead of having just one warm hide at 90.

But since I wouldn't use that method^ I'd suggest you just buy a thermostat with 2 probes so you can individually control each enclosure.

ErikBush97 · 07-07-13, 02:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikoh4792

1. I do not know why, but after having a similar discussion on this forum, I've agreed with other posters that each heat source should have it's own probe. With my helix thermostat it only has one probe but 3 plugs. I use it only for one heat source which is the heat tape for my racking system.

I think it was meant to be used to heat multiple heat sources that are all the same. For example three 8 watt under tank heaters or three 40 watt light bulbs. However, if the one heating the probe fails, the other two heat sources run at full power which could end up killing the other two animals.

2. I've already said why I wouldn't do it but if I did do that, I would place an extra hide for the animal which needs lower temperatures. For example for the corn I would place an extra hide where it can get to the high 80's instead of having just one warm hide at 90.

But since I wouldn't use that method^ I'd suggest you just buy a thermostat with 2 probes so you can individually control each enclosure.

Thanks, man. Do you happen to know a model with 2 probes I could search, or a link?

Mikoh4792 · 07-07-13, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ErikBush97

Thanks, man. Do you happen to know a model with 2 probes I could search, or a link?

You've told us about your financial situation, so with that in mind I'll say this. You can get two individual thermostats with one probe each for two enclosures(If you buy the less expensive ones) for less money than if you bought one good quality proportional thermostat such as herpstat 2 or vivarium electronics. The less expensive ones will be on/off but will get the job done. These are some choices so you can decide which will be best.

A lot of these are from amazon just show you, you can still find them elsewhere(most have there own website)

on/off thermostats with one probe.

Amazon.com : Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat For Heat Mats : Plant Germination Heating Mats : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Ranco Digital Electronic Thermostat - ETC-141000-000 - Amazon.com

Amazon.com: NEW DIGITAL CHIP - BAH-1000DC Reptile Thermostat With DC Chip Technology: Pet Supplies

Amazon.com: Zilla 11939 Temperature Controller, 1000-Watt: Pet Supplies

Single thermostats with two probes

Spyder Robotics , Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce look at herpstat 2

Thermostats look at VE 300x2

ErikBush97 · 07-07-13, 03:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikoh4792

You've told us about your financial situation, so with that in mind I'll say this. You can get two individual thermostats with one probe each for two enclosures(If you buy the less expensive ones) for less money than if you bought one good quality proportional thermostat such as herpstat 2 or vivarium electronics. The less expensive ones will be on/off but will get the job done. These are some choices so you can decide which will be best.

A lot of these are from amazon just show you, you can still find them elsewhere(most have there own website)

on/off thermostats with one probe.

Amazon.com : Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat For Heat Mats : Plant Germination Heating Mats : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Ranco Digital Electronic Thermostat - ETC-141000-000 - Amazon.com

Amazon.com: NEW DIGITAL CHIP - BAH-1000DC Reptile Thermostat With DC Chip Technology: Pet Supplies

Amazon.com: Zilla 11939 Temperature Controller, 1000-Watt: Pet Supplies

Single thermostats with two probes

Spyder Robotics , Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce look at herpstat 2

Thermostats look at VE 300x2

Thanks, man!

MDT · 07-07-13, 05:54 AM

I have 3 thermostats...Two VE-300's and one Herpstat 1.
Personally, I run similar species (with similar requirements) off of one stat. My carpet pythons (two of them) are controlled by one of the VE-300's. My retics (three of them) are controlled by the other. My diamond python (one- requiring a different heating /cooling parameters) is run independently off the Herpstat. They all control ceramic heat emitters. I do have individual digital thermometers in each enclosure as a "backup". My animals are managed daily and conditions in the enclosures are checked routinely.

Abby · 07-07-13, 06:20 AM

So I have a 20 gallon long bearded dragon set up. (It's just for a baby.) I've got a basking lamp and a UVB strip. I have a digital thermometer, but I do not have anything to control the temps, like a thermostat. Should I get two thermostats, one to control the UVB and the other to control the basking lamp, or will one do for both?

Amadeus · 07-07-13, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abby

So I have a 20 gallon long bearded dragon set up. (It's just for a baby.) I've got a basking lamp and a UVB strip. I have a digital thermometer, but I do not have anything to control the temps, like a thermostat. Should I get two thermostats, one to control the UVB and the other to control the basking lamp, or will one do for both?

Unless the uvb light produces heat then no leave it on with your day/night whatever cycle.

**Aaron_S** · 07-07-13, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abby

So I have a 20 gallon long bearded dragon set up. (It's just for a baby.) I've got a basking lamp and a UVB strip. I have a digital thermometer, but I do not have anything to control the temps, like a thermostat. Should I get two thermostats, one to control the UVB and the other to control the basking lamp, or will one do for both?

The more expensive, higher-end models of thermostats have it built into one.

I know the herpstat 4 does, you could check the next version down to see if it does too.

I don't see why people cheap out on these things. You've spent countless hours researching, money setting them up properly and on them to purchase them, countless hours loving and adoring something (or so the people say) and yet decide to risk their life for a few bucks.

The OP wants to eventually breed and yet doesn't realize going cheap on this kind of stuff is stupid. Why breed anything at all if you're going to risk hundreds and possibly thousands of dollars of "inventory" on poop thermostats? Get it right the first time. It's not like thermostats have expiry dates.

Mikoh4792 · 07-07-13, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

The more expensive, higher-end models of thermostats have it built into one.

I know the herpstat 4 does, you could check the next version down to see if it does too.

I don't see why people cheap out on these things. You've spent countless hours researching, money setting them up properly and on them to purchase them, countless hours loving and adoring something (or so the people say) and yet decide to risk their life for a few bucks.

The OP wants to eventually breed and yet doesn't realize going cheap on this kind of stuff is stupid. Why breed anything at all if you're going to risk hundreds and possibly thousands of dollars of "inventory" on poop thermostats? Get it right the first time. It's not like thermostats have expiry dates.

The herpstat has a light controller(slowly dimming or brightening to mimick sunset and sunlight) but I don't know if it can be used with fluorescents.

I'll actually test it out right now and post how it goes.

formica · 07-07-13, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikoh4792

I'll actually test it out right now and post how it goes.

you cant dim a florescent tube, or CFL's

Mikoh4792 · 07-07-13, 02:49 PM

Alright so I just tested it out and it does work with fluorescent lights.

I set it to dim over 15 minutes and brighten over 15 minutes. It dims and brightens about 6 to 7% every minute. So you can imagine that when it shuts on or off it's still going to be a drastic change in lighting.

I'm going to test it out later by setting it to dim/brighten over 30 minutes, and then an hour and then an hour and 30 minutes....etc to see if it makes it any more gradual(by dimming/brightening over smaller increments than 6-7%)

All in all, it does work.

formica · 07-07-13, 06:24 AM

I'd recommend a pulse/dimming thermostat for your BP for more stable control, your corn is more tolerant and will do fine with a standard on/off thermo stat used mainly to ensure temps dont go to high

Also always worth having a spare on/off thermostat incase one breaks, then you can set a Max desired temp and ensure no damage is done by using heating without any control while you sort out a replacement

I'd also recomend at least 2 digital thermometer/hygrometers for each snake, one on the warm end and one on the cool end - you can get these for less than $5 on ebay. IR thermometer gun is recomended too - its important to measure temps because you may need to tweek your thermostat higher/lower to get the right gradient

Abby · 07-07-13, 11:45 AM

Thank you!

Amadeus · 07-07-13, 02:09 PM

OP breed? Impossible.

The whole idea of a thermostat is to not loose your collection on crappy electronics. What is one case where a 30$ thermostat seriously harmed a reptile. They are made to not have catastrophic failures. They have fuses and circuit breakers. An expensive model may control another variable or make it more accurate but I highly doubt a cheapy is a risk to your animals.