PDA

View Full Version : Hatchling Western


aidenb
04-11-13, 04:39 PM
I apologize if this already posted but it disappeared after I hit post. I have a 5-6" hatchling western who was supposed to be feeding well on half pinkies but so far turns everything down. He is in a 10 gallon with a warm side of 90.5 with aspen bedding, a hide, and water bowl. He shows no interest in food so far so I was wondering whether it would be ok to try to feed African dwarf frogs, either frozen or live, from a pet store to try and get him going? I'm just worried as to how long one this small can go without eating.

SSSSnakes
04-11-13, 06:12 PM
I have a hatchling Western Hognose and he eats F/T pinkies. I put him in a smaller container and put the pinkie on a paper towel and leave him alone for a while. When I come back the pinkie is gone. He refuses to take the food from me.

aidenb
04-11-13, 07:47 PM
How long can a hatchling hognose go without eating? At what point do I need to try to assist feed? This is the complete opposite to what I'm used to, my 5' taiwan beauty ratsnake will eat 4 large mice once a week and want more

SSSSnakes
04-11-13, 08:27 PM
It depends on how old it is. Most hatchlings do not need or want to eat until their first shed. I know they can go for months without eating. Just try all the trick, like braining the pinkie, scenting it with frogs or chicken soup broth, offering live. Put the snake and the pinkie in a paper bag and leaving it over night. But do not stress it out by trying to feed it to often. Give it at least 5 days between offering it food. The trick is determination and patience.

Gregg M
04-12-13, 05:17 AM
It depends on how old it is. Most hatchlings do not need or want to eat until their first shed. I know they can go for months without eating. Just try all the trick, like braining the pinkie, scenting it with frogs or chicken soup broth, offering live. Put the snake and the pinkie in a paper bag and leaving it over night. But do not stress it out by trying to feed it to often. Give it at least 5 days between offering it food. The trick is determination and patience.

Being that hognose snakes shed within ours of hatching, I would say its well past it first shed by now. If they waited until the shed after that to eat, they would be dead of starvation.

Hatchlings can not go for months without feeding. The will die especially if kept at active temperatures. So, when a hatching is not feeding, it is something to be concerned about.

Also, hatchling hogs should be feeding every 2 to 3 days, not every 5...

SSSSnakes
04-12-13, 06:18 AM
Being that hognose snakes shed within ours of hatching, I would say its well past it first shed by now. If they waited until the shed after that to eat, they would be dead of starvation.

Hatchlings can not go for months without feeding. The will die especially if kept at active temperatures. So, when a hatching is not feeding, it is something to be concerned about.

Also, hatchling hogs should be feeding every 2 to 3 days, not every 5...
Opinions and experience vary. I've dealt with hatchlings before and have had good results. I give my advice from experience and it has been working for me. People can take my advice or not, but it comes from over 30 years of experience. There are many ways of doing things and getting the same result. It is better to offer your ways and not criticize others of theirs.

drewkore
04-12-13, 04:20 PM
I don't believe Gregg was attempting to insult you as you seem to have taken it. I believe Gregg has substantial experience specifically with hognose and he is trying to convey that they have a different metabolism than other species. While many snakes can go months without eating with little concern, this may not be the case for young hognoses.

aidenb
04-12-13, 05:48 PM
That's exactly what I wanted to know, I know that they have the faster metabolism and I was wanting to gauge at what point I would need to assist feed.

SSSSnakes
04-12-13, 06:59 PM
I don't believe Gregg was attempting to insult you as you seem to have taken it. I believe Gregg has substantial experience specifically with hognose and he is trying to convey that they have a different metabolism than other species. While many snakes can go months without eating with little concern, this may not be the case for young hognoses.

I do understand what is being said, but I also deal with snakes that have a faster metabolism such as Hognose, Garters, Coachwhips and other and it is not always necessary to feed these snake so often to maintain a healthy snake. These snakes are less active in captivity and can maintain a healthy weight even if not fed so often. As I said before, there are many ways of doing the same thing and getting the same result. We need to not think our way is the only way.

Gregg M
04-13-13, 07:54 PM
I do understand what is being said, but I also deal with snakes that have a faster metabolism such as Hognose, Garters, Coachwhips and other and it is not always necessary to feed these snake so often to maintain a healthy snake. These snakes are less active in captivity and can maintain a healthy weight even if not fed so often.

These snakes are indeed very active when they are kept properly. When they are kept correctly, it is very necessary to feed them often. Sure, if you keep them in a way some internet caresheets recommend, you can feed them once a week and have 3 year old animals that are not even as big as my yearlings because their metabolism is not running efficiently.

As I said before, there are many ways of doing the same thing and getting the same result. We need to not think our way is the only way.

I really find that saying annoying. Sure, you can do things differently, but, there are better ways to do things and with some aspects, there is only one correct way things should be done. I can use my hands to pick up a gaboon viper, but we all know there are better ways of manipulating venomous snakes. So, yes, I agree there are many ways to do something, but few ways to do something correctly.

aidenb
04-16-13, 12:03 AM
Well he's eating a tuna scented pinkie every 3 days and seeming to do well, I'm not used to such shy feeders. My cape gopher, African house, and taiwan beauty snake all hit the mouse before the tongs are even at the bottom of the feeding box.