View Full Version : Getting my first crested tonight.
Today I got an email, asking me to take in a crested gecko. Since I already have a general idea on their care, I agreed to take the little one in. I read a couple of caresheets as well, but would love to have more updated care tips, and more of an insight from people on this forum. I already have an idea on the ideal enclosure for them, I know their temperature needs, and somewhat about humidity.
So for questions..
How many times should I mist the enclosure?
What does everyone feed for diet?
How deep should the substrate be?
Does anyone have a gecko that has a preference in a certain tank accessory? (examples: a vine, a certain type of plant, certain substrate, etc)
Any other tips would be greatly appreciated, also if anyone would like, post pictures of your enclosures :) I'd like to get an idea on decorating.
Congrats on your new addition! As to diet, the overwhelming opinion of most keepers is that one of the complete diets should be used as the staple. There are several brands but the one most recommended and the only one I have experience with is the Repashy powder crested gecko diet, or CGD that you add water to.
How much you'll need to mist will depend on a lot of factors. Mainly you'll want a cycle, say get it up to 80% or 90% in the morning and let it dry out to as low as 50/60% through the day, that will keep the cage from developing mold. Most people mist heavily once in the morning and then a lot of the time will mist lightly before bed.
EmbraceCalamity
12-02-12, 02:41 PM
1) Misting should be done as often as is required to keep the humidity levels where they should be. But misting only very briefly raises humidity, so it's ideal to find other ways to bring up humidity (live plants, moisture-holding substrates like coconut fiber, a water bowl, etc.).
2) Crested Gecko Diet by Repashy is the most widely used and pretty much agreed to be the best. Of course you can give them some crickets sometimes too, but that's the best staple. Don't feed baby food.
3) Doesn't need to be deep. They won't spend much time on it.
4) I don't own a crestie, so I can't help you with that one. The more the better, though. I like bromeliads because I think they're really pretty, but vines and branches are good.
For decorating, you can do a quick Google search for "crested gecko habitat/terrarium/setup." You'll find lots of great ideas. :)
~Maggot
I usually keep babies on paper towel for the first few months but like something like Eco Earth after that as it holds humidity better. The paper towels are good for monitoring baby or new geckos though. I only use about an inch of substrate. I know a lot of keepers use only paper towel for all of theirs and others use deeper substrate than I do. It's up to you and whatever works best for you.
beardeds4life
12-02-12, 02:50 PM
Once it is an adult (I dont know how old it is know) you should look into bioactive substrate. It is basically "living" substrate that kinda takes care of itself.
EmbraceCalamity
12-02-12, 02:53 PM
Once it is an adult (I dont know how old it is know) you should look into bioactive substrate. It is basically "living" substrate that kinda takes care of itself.I'm not sure that would hold humidity as well though. Bioactive substrates are more for ground-dwelling reptiles, from what I understand.
~Maggot
beardeds4life
12-02-12, 06:19 PM
With live plants basically a whole little eco system it will be one of the best crested gecko enclosures and will maintain humidity fine.
EmbraceCalamity
12-02-12, 06:43 PM
With live plants basically a whole little eco system it will be one of the best crested gecko enclosures and will maintain humidity fine.Are you well-versed on the moisture-holding abilities of coconut fiber verses the particular components of bioactive substrate from the OP's area? And you don't need bioactive substrate for live plants. I've actually had better luck using a coco fiber/organic soil mixture with live plants than bioactive because of the ground in my area. I mean, it might work fine, but coco fiber is easier and proven for cresties.
~Maggot
beardeds4life
12-02-12, 08:42 PM
You dont have to have wild soil for a bio active vivarium. You can buy normal soil and add insects to it. That is what I am referring to. There are different ways to accomplish bio active soil. All it is is soil that cleans out the poop and stuff.
EmbraceCalamity
12-02-12, 08:55 PM
You dont have to have wild soil for a bio active vivarium. You can buy normal soil and add insects to it. That is what I am referring to. There are different ways to accomplish bio active soil. All it is is soil that cleans out the poop and stuff.There's more than just some insects in bioactive soil.
~Maggot
beardeds4life
12-02-12, 09:13 PM
Yes but you can accomplish a rough interpretation of it with eco earth. You can even buy pre made little cultures to add.
EmbraceCalamity
12-02-12, 09:26 PM
Yes but you can accomplish a rough interpretation of it with eco earth. You can even buy pre made little cultures to add.You said buy soil and add insects to it, and now you're saying buy coconut fiber and add "cultures" (of what?), so I'm not really sure what you're suggesting the OP do. But, meh, guess it doesn't matter. Just seems like unnecessary effort here.
~Maggot
Danimal
12-03-12, 11:41 AM
I mist heavily in the morning and in the early evening. I feed Repashy and occasionally a few crickets. I only have small babies right now so they are in tubs with paper towels, a small piece of a paper towel roll and a piece of fake ivy garland. I will probably keep some in tubs.
I intend to take a couple of females and put in a planted display viv but as of right now I am not planning on adding insects to the sub. I do that in my monitors cage and they do a really good job of keeping it clean, I am a fan. I definitely think that would be a plus but until I am sure that the cresties will eat the fortified diet, I am going to hold off. The only think I pay close attention to is the temps because of where I am. Humidity is not much of an issue, temps can be.
Thanks for the replies :) I went to pick him up yesterday, he was in a 10 gallon tank, so I laid it upwards to make an arboreal enclosure for him. I'll be getting him a larger tank as soon as I could. I gave him a vine, a branch, and lots of plants. The top of the tank was screen, so I covered it in plastic wrap and it's been keeping the humidity in a lot better. I've added coconut fiber in the tank, and it's helping keep the humidity as well.
I'll look into having real plants in there once I get him his bigger tank. What kind of plants are safe for them, and where do I buy them?
Also does repashy sell in petstores? I have a reptile store downtown so the next time I'll go there, I'll have a look if it isn't at my local petstore. I noticed online, they had some for leopard geckos as well. Does anything have experience with feeding leopard geckos repashy food? My crested was being fed flukers crested gecko food, is that bad for them? She said that he never touched the food.
Here's my little guy :D I've named him Spock. :p He's really tame, but pretty quick, haha.
http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/577954_10151225810479471_704270578_n.jpg
He looks great! Nice head structure! Can't say for about Canada but they do carry the Repashy CGD in most Pet stores here but it is usually cheaper online, or at least much easier to find larger containers of it. The ones sold in stores are usually very small. But with one crested, they should be enough to last you two to three months. I don't know if links to other forums are allowed, so I'm just going to copy and paste the plant list from one of the Rhac forums on here, it's a bit long.
This is not written by me and I don't claim credit for writing it. This list has been floating around for the last few years ever since I first posted here. It was originally made so it could be added upon by members but when I first started working on it there was not a lot of people interested in doing planted tanks so it sort of fell to the way side. Since a lot more people seam to be interested in planted tanks now and it has been requested Im making this list into a sticky. Please feel free to add plant names by replying. I ask that you list the Latin and at least one common name (if it has one) also any care tips would be wonderful.
So far this is the list. As people reply I will add the names.
This list is a Rhac safe list. Make sure to double check each plant for stability and if you feed live feeders in the tank. Use with discretion.
Bromeliads:
*Aechmea fasciata (Urn plants/Silver Vase Bromeliad) – Large
*Billbergia nutans – (queens Tears) partial shade to bright indirect light
*Cryptanthus zonatus (Earth stars) – warm, humid, bright light
*Guzmania lingulata – warm, humid, bright light
*Nidularium – 12-15 inches, low to Med. Light
*Tillandsia – Air plant, warm & humid
*Vrisea splendens (sword bromeliads) Light shade
~Other Plants:
*Acalphya (copperleafs, chenille plants)
*Adiantum (maidenhair ferns) – cool and dry in winter
*Aglaonema (Chinese evergreens) – do well in low lights, highly recommended
*Alocasia (elephant ears) – must be kept moist, humid and warm, will either not do well or overgrow everything
*Asplenium (Bird’s nest fern) – moist soil, up to 3 feet high
*Bamboo - (live or dry) please the the Wikipedia article, way to much intresting info to list! Clippings will produice.
*Beaucarnea recurvata - (Ponytail Palms)
*Calathea zebrine - (Zebra plant) – moist moderate temps, moderate light
*Ceropegia woodii - (Rosary Vine,Hearts entangled, or String of hearts) Water thoroughly, and then allow the soil to completely dry out before watering again.
*Chlorophytum (spider plants) – average humidity, moderate light, should be allowed to get almost dry before watering
*Cissus (kangaroo vines, grape ivys) – no moist soil
--- Cissus discolor- (rex begonia vine) colors on these leaves are gorgeous
*Codiaeum variegatum (often confused for Croton, because of this it is often labeled "croton" as a common name)
*Crassula ovata - (Jade Plant, Friendship tree or Money plant)Clippings will produice.
*Cyrtomium - (Holly ferns)
*Dracaena - (Dragon plants)
*Ficus (rubber trees, ornamental figs) should be washed of when dirty, do wellin spotlight, Use caution with any plant of the ficus family that has a "milky sap" when leafs/stems are broken, it is a skin and eye irratant.
---Ficus pumila var. quercifolia - Oak Leaf Creeping Fig
creeping figs in general are good, there's a couple different varieties.
*Gynura aurantiaca - (purple passion) Medium light, good drainage. Sort of delicate.
*Maranta - (prayer plant) warm temps, high humidity
*Monolina primuliflora (Monolena)
*Pilea cadieri- creeping mass of tiny silver leaves 1/4" across. Easy to grow in terrarium conditions with well drained substrates.
*Peperomia - (radiator plant) some in this family are an epiphyte or air plant. Clippings will generally produice.
*Radermachera sinica - (China Doll)very difficult to root, Growth slowers used by nurserys will grow fast and less bushy.
*Sanseveria - (Snake Plants)aethiopica,caniculata,kirkii pulchra, parva, pinguicula, sinularis, thyrsiflora & trifasciata
*Scindapsus (Pothos) - looks like philodendron, very hardy. Clippings will produice.
*Schefflera arboricola - (Umbrella Plant)
*Seemania sylvatica- beautiful red fuzzy 1" flowers. Plants grow up to 12" tall and spread readily
*Spathiphyllum - (peace lilies) all lilys are toxic to cats *uses caution in tanks.
*Tradescantia zebrina - (wandering Jew/ spiderwart) Can cause skin iritation in humans when handeld frequently. Clippings will produice. Called inch plant because it can grow up to an inch a day!
*Pillow Moss- Moss is notoriously hard to keep alive and spread and requires a lot of light and water (probably too much than a Rhac would receive in the wild).
*****WARNING*****
These plants have been claimed by some to be harmful in tanks with live animals. Some have been use with little to no problems, others are dangerous. Please use with caution or not at all.
*Hedera helix - (Ivy, English Ivy) This plant is nontoxic to birds but is toxic to humans. It is unknown what would happen when and if a feeder insect were to eat it then a reptile were to eat it in exchange.
*Philodendron- All parts of the plant are poisonous, due to the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. Make sure to double check this vs. Pothos, they look alike and are generally mix together at most plant stores. Some say that this plant is safe but from my reading I do not agree they are for all herps.
*Dieffenbachia - (Dumbcane) All parts of the plant are poisonous, due to the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. . It has been known to cause the death of cats, dogs, and small children. This plant is considered a neurotoxin.
http://www.livingrainforest.org/abou...the-dumb-cane/
*Codiaeum variegatum and Croton look the same accept Croton (genus) Croton Oil is used as an active ingredient in facial chemical peels. Also in the past Croton oil was used in herbal medicine as a violent purgative. Some have claimed is has killed their pets.
*Dracunculus vulgaris (aka Arum dracunculus) aslo Voodoo Lily. Roots and other parts of the plant are listed as toxic.
*Begonia's-they are known to be poisonous to cats and dogs, but the roots are the main danger. This plant is used in tons of Dart frog tanks and have not been noticed as any danger. Since the root is the dangerous part is maybe best not to use them in with females that may look to lay eggs (good or duds) in the roots.
* Hemigraphis alternata - (purple waffle) Medium light, high water great for some herps BUT Handling plant may cause skin irritation or allergic reaction in some people. Not knowen how it will affect Rhacs.
Even if a plant is listed as 'toxic if eaten' don't believe for a moment your animal won't lick the plant or eat an insect that's eaten the plant. Be very careful with them.
Note on store bought plants: Make sure to wash any plant you bring into your home. Remove all soil and wash with room temp to cool water and a drop of dawn dish soap. This will remove any pesticides and/or bugs that could cause problems with your herps.
exoticangel. com is one of the suppliers for lowes and some home depots. If you see a plant on the web page that you would like most times if you ask at the store they will order it for you.
EmbraceCalamity
12-03-12, 08:35 PM
I noticed online, they had some for leopard geckos as well. Does anything have experience with feeding leopard geckos repashy food?Do you mean this? T-Rex Leopard Gecko Calcium Plus Supplement Reptile Food Supplements (http://www.petmountain.com/show_product/11442-509487)
That's not food, just a supplement. I use it and love it. With a lot of the vitamin supplements out there, you have to be careful about using them too much or not enough. That stuff is designed to use every feeding, so it's much easier and more convenient. I've been using it since I got my leo back in June, and she's never had any signs of any vitamin deficiencies/overdoses.
My crested was being fed flukers crested gecko food, is that bad for them? She said that he never touched the food.If you mean the pelleted stuff, don't bother with it. I tried to use that too, and my crestie didn't touch it (ended up passing away, but I was a kid and took bad advice, so it was probably a combination of things). CGD is definitely the way to go. It should be at any pet store you go to.
Here's my little guy :D I've named him Spock. :p He's really tame, but pretty quick, haha.
http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/577954_10151225810479471_704270578_n.jpgHe's gorgeous. :D
~Maggot
beardeds4life
12-03-12, 11:47 PM
You can get the plants from a local hardware store/nursery. When you get them home wash them off really well. Take the plant out of the pot and rinse all the soil and stuff off the roots. If you want to plant straight in the viv plant it now or you can put it in a pot with organic chemical free potting soil. Instead I recommend just using the eco earth. If you go with live plants you will need to have lights too. You dont need to worry about fertilizer or anything. You can also buy your plants from joshsfrogs.com but I dont know if they ship to Canada. I am pretty sure you can also get cultures of the beneficial insects from them but don't quote me on that.
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