eyelash viper caging requirements

[mrsleepybuddah]

Can I put a male in a 12"x12"x18" tall for life?

[KD35WIN.AS.ONE]

Can I put a male in a 12"x12"x18" tall for life?


18"x18"x24" will house a male or female for life.

[stephanbakir]

Possibly welcome to the forums?
What kind of eyelash are you looking for, what kind of experience with hots do you have?

[Will0W783]

Hello. It's important to have good experience with a variety of very aggressive non-hot arboreals (GTPs, ETBs, angry ratsnakes) before considering a hot. Although less likely to be lethal than, say, a cobra or rattlesnake, eyelash palm vipers can still cause painful swelling, blistering and tissue necrosis. You want to really make sure you can handle the animal and the necessary safety precautions before you acquire one. Giving us a bit more information about yourself and your snake experiences can help us better advise you.

[whoaxmary]

Welcome to the forum. What Willow says couldn't be more well put, look forward to reading more about you soon. :)

[KD35WIN.AS.ONE]

Giving us a bit more information about yourself and your snake experiences can help us better advise you.


hahaha i already advised him.. He/she expressed a question related to housing a species of snake, not about general snake keeping.. Are you assuming he/she doesn't have even common knowledge about keeping tree vipers? Not trying to be negative just wondering..

[SSSSnakes]

That size enclosure should be fine.

[Will0W783]

I have no idea what the extent of his/her knowledge is. I just found it rather concerning that he/she was asking such a specific question about a venomous snake. Eyelash vipers are one of the most commonly found hots in collections, so there is a lot of information on them. I would like to think that most people responsibly researching keeping hots would be researching them months to years before they get one. However, this person could have simply used this forum as a first pass search for information and simply be in the researching stage, or they could be ready to go out and get one tomorrow. There's no way to tell from that short post, but I figured I warn them to make sure they are really ready.

[KD35WIN.AS.ONE]

I have no idea what the extent of his/her knowledge is. I just found it rather concerning that he/she was asking such a specific question about a venomous snake. Eyelash vipers are one of the most commonly found hots in collections, so there is a lot of information on them. I would like to think that most people responsibly researching keeping hots would be researching them months to years before they get one. However, this person could have simply used this forum as a first pass search for information and simply be in the researching stage, or they could be ready to go out and get one tomorrow. There's no way to tell from that short post, but I figured I warn them to make sure they are really ready.


I think i give people the benefit of the doubt sometimes, on here id assume someone that register's to a forum to ask one question about housing a Bothriechis schlegelii that is much debated in many areas not just housing size, is just looking for individual keepers opinions. People successfully house these snakes in tubs all the way up to multiple animal vivs. Im guessing he/she already owns the snake sense he/she knows its a male.

Anyways i understand why you intently asked in your first post. To a sense i agree with you, if this person has no clue what there doing and plans to get one which will place the snake, him or both in harm would be a very bad thing. So i see why you asked.

[mrsleepybuddah]

Wow thanks for all the replies. I've never had any hot snakes before, this is my first. I've kept snakes on and off for a little over 10 years now. I've had a carpet python, nicaraguan boa, amazon tree boa, ball python, corn snakes and thats about it as far as I can remember. I've been doing research on just general venomous snake keeping and looking for any info I can about eyelashe vipers. Theres not much on the net, I found a few care sheets but it says the same thing. I know I dont have enough experience keeping hot snakes but I do have enough common sense to keep everything safe and secure. Everybodys got to start somewhere. I've got a snake hook, and thinking about getting some venom defender gloves what do you guys think? If anyone has links to where I can find more info on these guys let me know. Thanks. Here he is in his new home.

[stephanbakir]

My first bit of advice will be, get a second hook. You shouldn't need it because they aren't overly fast but it can save you from getting tagged.
Stay away from snake "tongs".

[KD35WIN.AS.ONE]

Wow thanks for all the replies. I've never had any hot snakes before, this is my first. I've kept snakes on and off for a little over 10 years now. I've had a carpet python, nicaraguan boa, amazon tree boa, ball python, corn snakes and thats about it as far as I can remember. I've been doing research on just general venomous snake keeping and looking for any info I can about eyelashe vipers. Theres not much on the net, I found a few care sheets but it says the same thing. I know I dont have enough experience keeping hot snakes but I do have enough common sense to keep everything safe and secure. Everybodys got to start somewhere. I've got a snake hook, and thinking about getting some venom defender gloves what do you guys think? If anyone has links to where I can find more info on these guys let me know. Thanks. Here he is in his new home.


As long as the snake is eating and remains healthy retaining no sheds or eye caps you shouldn't have an issue. If or when any of these problems arise then you will wish you had be taught what to do in these situations. Considering you have experience with how to keep a snake alive through proper husbandry you chose a decent first venomous snake. Anyone who has ever worked with these will know why.

I am a big fan of venom defenders, but there not needed for what you working with. Just dont put your hand in the snakes face and you'll be fine for now.. By the way what state are you located in?

If you have any questions about care, husbandry, handling techniques for this species or anything regarding them you can PM me or ask in a thread, ill be glad to help.

[mrsleepybuddah]

Thanks, you guys are very helpful.

My first bit of advice will be, get a second hook. You shouldn't need it because they aren't overly fast but it can save you from getting tagged.
Stay away from snake "tongs".
I'm considering getting another snake hook as well, but yea I dont think I will ever be using snake tongs.

As long as the snake is eating and remains healthy retaining no sheds or eye caps you shouldn't have an issue. If or when any of these problems arise then you will wish you had be taught what to do in these situations. Considering you have experience with how to keep a snake alive through proper husbandry you chose a decent first venomous snake. Anyone who has ever worked with these will know why.

I am a big fan of venom defenders, but there not needed for what you working with. Just dont put your hand in the snakes face and you'll be fine for now.. By the way what state are you located in?

If you have any questions about care, husbandry, handling techniques for this species or anything regarding them you can PM me or ask in a thread, ill be glad to help.

Hey I'm located in MI. Everything with him seems to be going fine as of now. Its been a week now since I had him. I tried to feed him yesterday but he didnt eat so I will try again next week. I did some research before I chose to get an eyelash viper. I like them because of their color variations, small size, aboreal nature, ease of keeping, and because they are mostly docile. He has never tried to strike at me or really got into a defensive position. My nicaraguan boa or atb would have already put 2 fangs in my hand. I had them mainly for display.

Since the snake is venomous he will have to be in the basement. It gets pretty cold in the winter, around 60 degrees. Will a good heat mat be enough or will I need a heat lamp? I bought a 60 watt heat lamp and it dried out the tank pretty quick so I dont really want to use it. That was with the heat mat off. The heat mat I'm using now isnt right for the tank and its barely heating the tank up to the right temps. I'm going to get a zoo med heat mat that was made for the terrarium that I got so I dont know how it will work yet. What do you suggest? Thanks.

[stephanbakir]

Heat lamps will only dry out tanks that aren't sealed. (screen tops etc)
A good heat mat will keep up cage temps in an insulated enclosure though.

[SSSSnakes]

My nicaraguan boa or atb would have already put 2 fangs in my hand.

Boas do not have fangs. Only venomous snakes have fangs. Boas may have larger canine teeth.

[mrsleepybuddah]

Heat lamps will only dry out tanks that aren't sealed. (screen tops etc)
A good heat mat will keep up cage temps in an insulated enclosure though.
Thanks, I feel a little more confident now that if I buy a heat mat it will be enough. I can seal the top no problem, now the problem is if its too hot at the bottom of the tank?

Boas do not have fangs. Only venomous snakes have fangs. Boas may have larger canine teeth.
Thanks for correcting me lol. I thought twice about using the word "fang". It sounds better than teeth though.

[stephanbakir]

You won't have a hard time setting a temp gradient with a heat pad. And using a thermostat solves the potential problem of burning/overheating the animal

[SSSSnakes]

Thanks for correcting me lol. I thought twice about using the word "fang". It sounds better than teeth though.


Was not trying in any way to insult you. Hope you did not take it that way.

[candyraver69]

Haha, fangs or not, man I can attest to the nics' having some big teeth of some sort, and an attitude to go with them. Not as big as vipers maybe, but noteworthy. :)

[KD35WIN.AS.ONE]

Heat lamps will only dry out tanks that aren't sealed. (screen tops etc)
A good heat mat will keep up cage temps in an insulated enclosure though.


True but unfortunately a insulated enclosure will easily kill a Bothriechis schlegelii. Extremely high ventilation is first and for most.

[KD35WIN.AS.ONE]

Mrsleepybuddah please do not place anything above the viv to prevent ventilation!!! Husbandry of these snakes (venomous tree vipers) is nothing like other snakes. There is zero need for a temperature gradient, please consider moving him to another room that is around 75F. If this is not applicable then control the temperature inside the viv to around 77F during the day, not allowing much of a drop during the night. Control the humidity by spraying 1-2 times daily, this will not only provide a boost of humidity but allow the viper to drink... Water needs to be offered daily! and they will drink.. Everyday. I will respond to you PM with more info.

[SnakeyJay]

Heat lamps will only dry out tanks that aren't sealed. (screen tops etc)
A good heat mat will keep up cage temps in an insulated enclosure though.

I use infra red heat lamps in 2 of my enclosures. Theyre sealed wooden vivs and the lamps dry them out way too much. Im defo going for a CHE next time.

[mrsleepybuddah]

Was not trying in any way to insult you. Hope you did not take it that way.
No offense taken. :)

Mrsleepybuddah please do not place anything above the viv to prevent ventilation!!! Husbandry of these snakes (venomous tree vipers) is nothing like other snakes. There is zero need for a temperature gradient, please consider moving him to another room that is around 75F. If this is not applicable then control the temperature inside the viv to around 77F during the day, not allowing much of a drop during the night. Control the humidity by spraying 1-2 times daily, this will not only provide a boost of humidity but allow the viper to drink... Water needs to be offered daily! and they will drink.. Everyday. I will respond to you PM with more info.

Thanks for the info. I covered most of the top and left a little 1 inch crack the same length of the tank for ventilation. Theres also I vent in the front glass. Not sure if its enough considering you are saying extremely high ventilation. I will post pics of it later. My temps are usually 80-82 in the day and 75-77 at night I would estimate. I thought if the temps were in the mid to low 70s it is getting a little too cold. Humidity I keep around 70-90 depending if I misted the tank or not. He doesnt seem to like to drink when I spray him, but he's probably getting it off the glass or plants. I have 2 temperature/humidity guages so measure the temperature and humidity on the ground and at the top. They're usually about the same, humidity is usually lower at the top because of the light giving off a tab bit of heat. I'm going to get a good heat mat with a thermostat and hopefully that will do the job?

[KD35WIN.AS.ONE]

No offense taken. :)



Thanks for the info. I covered most of the top and left a little 1 inch crack the same length of the tank for ventilation. Theres also I vent in the front glass. Not sure if its enough considering you are saying extremely high ventilation. I will post pics of it later. My temps are usually 80-82 in the day and 75-77 at night I would estimate. I thought if the temps were in the mid to low 70s it is getting a little too cold. Humidity I keep around 70-90 depending if I misted the tank or not. He doesnt seem to like to drink when I spray him, but he's probably getting it off the glass or plants. I have 2 temperature/humidity guages so measure the temperature and humidity on the ground and at the top. They're usually about the same, humidity is usually lower at the top because of the light giving off a tab bit of heat. I'm going to get a good heat mat with a thermostat and hopefully that will do the job?


I wouldn't restrict airflow for any more than half the tank. I was simply recommending you move him to a room with more controlled temperatures. I keep mine in a temperature controlled room at 81F all day dropping to 79F at night for 4-5 hours. Room humidity is at a constant 56% sometimes slightly higher so 1 misting a day (necessary anyways to properly maintain these animals) raises the humidity to mid 70's lower 80's for most of the morning. Ventilation with tree vipers is very important. I dont cover any of the top and like your viv has a vent infront mine does to. It is very effective ventilation design but if you cover the top ifs ineffective. You do not need a constant 80% humidity, so please dont sacrifice ventilation.

[mrsleepybuddah]

I took some more pics, heres a pic showing how much of the top I had covered before. The top is 12x12. I had it covered to maintain humidity but since its ok for the humidity to drift down to the 50s for part of the day I dont really need it. The humidity in the room usually never goes below 60. Temps are still fine right now, but I will keep in mind that these guys need a lot of ventilation.

[whoaxmary]

That is an adorable looking snake. ;/

[blindfireak40]

What a cute little guy! Are these good beginner hots? Maybe someday, loooooooong down the road lol...

[stephanbakir]

My understanding is that their venom is mild compared to allot of other venom, but it can still cause necrosis aswell as other symptoms so its nothing to take lightly.

[SSSSnakes]

My understanding is that their venom is mild compared to allot of other venom, but it can still cause necrosis aswell as other symptoms so its nothing to take lightly.

Very well put. Also keep in mind if you are allergic to the venom it could kill you.