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View Full Version : 3rd times a charm......


Burmlova1088
08-09-05, 06:20 PM
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/76dabo62//img_4618.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/76dabo62//img_4620.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/76dabo62//img_4623.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/76dabo62//img_4624.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/76dabo62//img_4625.jpg

After 3 years of tring to sucessfully bred my normal corn with my anrey I finnally have 3 baby snakes (hopefully 4 within the next few days).

2 of the eggs caved in to much and got hard, but they were smaller than the others anyway so i dont know if that means they were like unfertilized or what.
One of the eggs was cut open, because we were told by the pet store we had a 50/50 chance of saving it that way (long story, dont ask).
3 eggs have hatched.
and the last egg has no dimpling yet but hopefully just a few more days.

The first year I had eggs I didnt know the snakes had mated therefore I didnt know about the eggs so they dried up.
The next year I got the eggs to moist and they all molded,
but this year I learned from my past misstakes

I now have 2 beautifull corns that im thinking are creamsicles (a male and a female), and one that i have no clue what it is the head is redish like her father my normal corn that i have had since it was a hatchling but yet she fades back in the tail to what looks like her mother which is a type A anrey.

Please help me identify these snakes

Thanks in advance

KenBo

Burmlova1088
08-10-05, 11:02 PM
grr why is no one replying?
doesnt anyone know what kind of morph these corns are?

Hanneys'n'Corns
08-11-05, 08:26 AM
My guess would be that you have 2 amelanistics and one normal corn hatchling. It is a little difficult to tell with those pictures...closeups would help make the 'identification' a little easier.

If these ID's are correct then your normal male is het for amel and so is your anery female. Your odds were very 'lucky' in this breeding...

Male is, Normal,Het for Amel
Female is, Anerythristic, Het for Amel

Offspring are predicted to be...
50%, Normal,Het for Amel, Het for Anery(Snow)
25%, Amelanistic, Het for Anery
25%, Normal,Het for Anery

I find that after the first shed their colouration sometimes changes. The 'orange' of a normal starts to appear more prominently.

Creamsicles are not pure corns...they are 'produced' by combining a ratsnake and a cornsnake...so you definitely don't have creamsicles unless your adults have some 'spare' genes we aren't aware of at this point.

Congrats on your successful hatchlings by the way...and good luck with your 'first feed'.

Hanneys'n'Corns

Burmlova1088
08-12-05, 05:27 PM
All the close-ups I tried to get were to bright cause of the camera that I have or something but ill try again.

and speaking of the first feed...
I was told I wasnt suposed to try to feed them untill they shed first
One of these amels has sheded (the brighter one in the pics),
but she wouldnt eat the last 3 times I tried to feed her
Is that what you ment by good luck with the first feed?
Is there some kinda trick to get her to eat it or do I just keep tring?

Thanks

KenBo

Hanneys'n'Corns
08-15-05, 07:31 AM
I can only speak from my experiences here, but as for first feedings here is my routine.....I begin with frozen/thawed pinkies.

I offer my 'freshly shed' hatchlings a pinky the evening I find the sloughed off skin in their container. Some devour the pinky almost immediately, others take their time and in the morning I find the pinky gone.

If the hatchling eats on the first attempt, then they are offered a 'pink' again in 5 days.

For my hatchlings which are not interested in 'eating' immediately after they have their first shed....I 'don' my 'patience hat'. I offer a pinky every three days for the first 2 weeks after they have shed; once they have eaten their first meal they go on the routine above. Fresh water must always be available to the hatchlings even if they aren't feeding...hydration is so important.

Sometimes some hatchlings are just plain stubborn about eating. A 'live' pinkie can sometimes stimulate the response so I will try that a few times as well. If a 'live' one doesn't stimulate the feeding response, I will try 'braining' and also scenting the pink with 'lizard' smell.

It really is a 'patience' trial with some non-feeders. You don't want to 'overkill' with the 'offering' of food items too close together as they can become stressed with a 'constant' intruder in their container. As I said above, I always try to wait at least three days in between each 'offering' of food.

Last year I had one female hatchling who refused to eat until after her second shed which was after 6 weeks. She eventually caught up to her sister sibling which I also kept...once she started to 'eat' she just didn't stop.

And we have to be 'realistic' about feeding too....in the wild, not all hatchlings survive. We can only do so much. 'Touch wood'.....I haven't had a hatchling not survive because it was a non feeder, but there are a few 'this year' who are sure making my 'patience hat' heavy as well.

Good luck....just put on that patience hat. Make sure all your 'environmental' surroundings are 'ideal' for encouraging that little guy to eat....and good luck.

The Hanneys

Burmlova1088
08-15-05, 09:35 AM
Thanks again

KenBo