Rescued Snake

[End Times]

I am employed as an Agent with the O.S.P.C.A. and recently a Ball Python was surrendered to our animal shelter. A woman apparently brought it in claiming that her son had moved away to work as a Forest Fire Fighter and couldn't take it with him. She herself wanted nothing to do with it, so brought it in begging the shelter staff to take it! At first the staff refused (I wasn't there at this time) saying that they wouldn't be able to adopt out a snake! After the shelter manager was dragged into things, it ended up that they charged the lady a $20.00 surrender fee and took the ball in.

I arrived at 4:00 PM that day to work my evening shift to find the girls sqwacking about a snake and that they were greatful I'd finally arrived to care for it and set it up for the night. The staff are aware that I once had a Ball Python in my care for a couple of months as a friend was out of the country, so suddenly that makes me the "snake guy" apparently...

Now, to get to the point:

Long story short, the snake is super tame and appears to have likely been handled on a regular basis by the previous owner. I brought it home the very next day and thus far all is well. Warm side is sitting at 96, cool side at 85. I'd like to get it a couple of degrees cooler, but my house is naturally hot in the summer months so hopefully those temps will be alright for awhile. Currently, the snake is in a 35 Gallon Aquarium (the lady brought it in with the snake) but I do have a rubbermaid ready to go should husbandry proove too difficult with the tank.

The snake measures a little over 3 feet, I'll get a more accurate measurement in a few days after its had time to settle. It appears to be at an ideal weight as it is thick bodied and healthy looking, I have no scale as of yet to get an exact weight. The lady stated it was around 1.5 years of age and that it ate a live mouse about two weeks prior. Despite the fact that it is "due" to eat, I've decided it would likely be best to give it a week to settle in before I attempt to feed it. The lady also said that she thinks the snake is male and that it's name is "Hercules". I realize you can't tell by looking, but I have a sneaking suspicion that it's a female. Looks to chunky to be a male...

I have a couple questions and if anyone can take the time to reply it would be much appreciated.

- The snake defecated today, and all appears visually well with the feces. I've taken a sample that I intend to take to the vet for testing just to be sure. How long is the sample good for in the fridge? In other words, can I wait a few days before having it tested or would the sample spoil?

- The snake thought it would be fun to lay in its crap. In the future, would it be safe to use a hypo-allergenic baby wipe to clean such messes from the animal's body?

- I would love to get the snake eating F/T. To my knowledge, it has so far eaten only live. Should I immediately try to get it on F/T or should I get a feeding or two in with live first? As I said, it apparently last ate a live mouse 2 weeks ago. Also, I'd hate to feed live again after having it's fecal done. I'd feel better if I could get the all clear from the vet and then be already feeding F/T to not have to worry about it getting any parasites in the future.

- Right now I am using a heat lamp for heating... I know, don't shoot, please! Anyway, if I move the snake to the rubbermaid (or leave it in the tank) I have concerns about leaving a heating pad on 24 hours a day. I know heat tape is the method of choice for balls, but I have only the one snake and don't intend on building a rack anytime soon, so heat tape is out of the question right now. Does anyone use heating pads designed for human use 24 hours a day? I don't want to burn my house down!

Thanks all. Oh, and I do own and have read "The Ball Python Manual" from front to back.

[Edmond Y]

End Times, congrats on the new pet. General speaking, defecated may be cause by a shock of a being in a new place. But may be I am wrong. I feed alive but my snake will eat F/t as well. What I do is pre-kill the mouse so that it still remain sence and tempiture on the body and slowly swtich to the point that my snake eat F/T. But to Keep F/T is a problem to me as well as I have to pay shipping charge. so I go back to feed alive and raise a few rat.
Some human use heat pad is quite good and have temp control. I did read some topic about those in the enclosure forum. Edmond

[End Times]

Thanks for the reply. I don't think it defecated due to stress, it was in the animal shelter for 2 days and then has been home for 2 days and it ate about 2 weeks ago apparently, so it was probably just due to go.

The only thing I am wondering is that it was pretty firm. It actually made a "log" much like a cat would say. There was urea present also, but the reason I am wondering about is because the ball I watched before had much moister craps. Like almost birdlike but firmer... Is an actual log shaped piece of feces normal for balls?

[Edmond Y]

Good to know that. Ball poop is quite solid and looks like a log, Not runnly. She should be fine.
Edmond

[End Times]

Anyone know how long that fecal sample is good in the fridge for?

Also, any thoughts on trying to get the animal on F/T right away? Or should I get a few feeds of live into it first as this is a new environment for it?

[nita]

Try the FT first, if he takes it great if not then go for live. As for the fecal, the fresher the better, certain parasites can only be detected within the first hours. My vet has always asked us to get it to him within 2 hrs. We did a talk on parasites one night at the herp society meeting and were told what it is that won't be detected after the 2 hour window but of course can't remember :) LOL

[End Times]

Thanks for the reply. I wish I'd seen it sooner. I already went ahead and offered a live mouse today (which the snake accepted!)

I decided it was best to get at least one meal into it as really I have nothing but a snake-hating stranger's word on when it last ate. I was thrilled that my ball ate the first try. Next feeding time I will be trying to get him/her on F/T.

[Linds]

You may want to try freshly killed before going full out to frozen thawed, as f/t is a bit different than fresh. As well as Balls can be a bit of a trick to get feeding on dead, especially after a year and a half. If it is of good condition, then it most certainly should be feeding on larger meals than a single live mouse. Hatchlings can often start on adult mice anywhere between the time they hatch to the first few months. You may want to try reving her up with a live meal then immediately offering her a prekilled mouse.

As for heat tape, you by no means need a rack to use it. Not only my racks is heated with it, but all my individual enclosures. That is the great part about it, you can cimply cut it to whatever size you need ;) If you still would prefer a different method, I suggest purchasing a reptile undertank heater and hooking it up to a lamp dimmer or thermostat. I wouldn't necssarily fell the safest using a human heat pad... it specifically states on the wanrings that they are not to be left on for extended periods of time. On really warm days, don't be afraid to turn the heat off altogether. If my room ever reaches in to the upper 80's, everyone's heat is shut off. Also, the warmer it gets, the less of a gradient you will want to provide. If your ambient temps are in the upper range, you will certainly want to provide a lower basking spot. Is your snake cruising a lot? Or is he moving to one area and hanging out for quite a while before moving to another? Is he staying all to one side?

I'm not really sure what is in the baby wipes so I won't recommend it. However, anytime I've had a snake end up covered in poop, I've given it a bath in tepid water with a very small amount of Ivory dishsoap (other brands have too many harsh additives). It leaves no residue and is quite mild. Make sure to give a quick rinse afterwards.

Good luck with your new friend, when you see the words 'snake' and 'spca' together, it rarely has a happy ending.


Edmond,
If your snake will take dead prey, why not feed freshly killed? I also breed my own rodents, and usually only the excess gets frozen. I prekill my feeders prior to feeding - far safer for the snake and more humane for the rodent.

[Edmond Y]

Lind, thanks for your suggestion. I did try pre-kill my mouse but I feel very bad about that, I packed the mouse in a plastic bag and slam it on the work brench. The sence of the blood drive the corn and my ball very crazy and almost took my finger. I did want to make a CO2 chamber later on because my rat's number glow faster than the snake can consume. But I will have six more balls will come under my plan shortly. For long term I will switch them to eat F/T so that I can control the feeding schedule.
Cheers
Edmond

[End Times]

Linds, thanks for all the info!

Good luck with your new friend, when you see the words 'snake' and 'spca' together, it rarely has a happy ending.

Not sure exactly what you mean here. I'm an agent with spca and have nothing at all against snakes... (obviously).