Newbie Questions.

[nighter628]

Hi guys, I am about to get my first ball and I first heard on here of people using rubbermaid's to house thier snakes and I was wondering why some perfer them over tanks? I was also wondering whats some of the benifits of feeding prekilled frozen mice over live?

There is man with a cart at a local mall selling Captive Bred Ball's with a 10 gallon tank, overhead heating light, Artifical Turf for the bottom of the tank and a piece of driftwood for $105, and I thought that was a great deal, even though im considering using the Calcium-sand for the bottom.

Anyway. all the help is appreciated cause im new at this.

Thanks Alot.

[Big Mike]

A cart at the mall...sounds fishy to me. Find out more about him before you buy a snake from him...he may be passing off WC for CBB and/or they may not be in good health.

Rubbermaids are good because they keep a higher humidity and because they are not as clear (see through) as glass, the snake doesn't see everything around it and may feel more secure.

Calcium sand is not the best substrate for a ball, especially a young one. Snakes don't need extra calcium and loose sand-like substrate may be injested while feeding...not good. Turf is acctually a good thing to use because it's easy to clean. News paper or paper towels is also very good and easy.

Make sure to find a few ball python care sheets and read them before you buy a snake.

Good luck

[Linds]

I'm agree with Mike, a cart at a mall sounds VERY fishy to me.......

Calci-Sand: Totally wrong substrate for balls. They are not desert species hence they need moderate humidity, which cannot be provided with calci-sand. Calci-sand will dehydrate your animal leading to respiratory problems and bad sheds.

Rubbermaids: As mentioned by Mike, they provide a more secure setting and maintain necessary humidity while having good airflow. In tanks it may become necessary to block off a portion of the top which decreases airflow. IMO tanks should be left to desert dwellers and fish...........

Live vs. Prekilled or Frozen/Thawed: Feeding live can be very risky since a bite can seriously injure your animal and be potentially fatal. If the snake grabs the rat from the wrong angle the rat may be able to sink his teeth right into your snakes face or neck. Also, if left unattended the rodent may actually eat your snake, should your snake decide he's not hungry. This, sadly enough, has happened one too many times. Feeding prekilled is much safer. There is no chance of a dead rodent attacking your snake :p If you go the next step to feeding frozen/thawed, you ad in the convenience factor as well. You do not have to run to the store once a week, you can simply stock up in your freezer. Also, you can avoid paying hefty retail prices if you order from a rodent supplier ;)

Hope this helped, and don't hesitate to ask any more questions you have! Welcome to the site! :D

[Lisa]

105$ for a cb BP sounds really cheap. never mind with a tank and overhead lighting specialy since usually you se them going for 150+ around here
also the 10G tank will only last you a year, by adult size you'll need something like a 40 stout

As said before sand is NOT good, i mention it again because you don't want your snake getting sand impacted in it's digestive track, it's probably a painful way for your snake to die.

as for rubbermaids, I prefer tanks over rubbermaids as you can clearly see your snake and as long as you monitor the humidity and adjust properly you should be fine. this can tie in with the substrate you use, i've found using something like flora mulch, cypress mulch or the like (avoid cedar, it's toxic) increases the humidity in the cage.

with live vs dead, another thing to consider is parasites, viruses and bacteria. with frozen/thawed most of these are killed off in the freezer, where with live they can be transfered to the snake quite easily

[nighter628]

Thanks for all the feedback. I now have my ball, and the guy told me it was a she, and she seems to be really healthy and she seems to be a good size, and the cutest thing around.
I have a over head heat lamp I also have a 40watt Day (blue) and a 40watt night (red) lamp, with a thermomter.
But I do not have anything for the humidity yet, I will pick that up tomorrow.

But yes, it came out to $140 for the CB ball, 10gal tank, over head heat lamp, both the bulbs mentioned earlier, thermomter, astro turf, hide spot, pretty good sized driftwood piece and a small plant.

I thought it was a excellent deal, and I will be making an appointment within the next 2 or 3 weeks to take her to the vet for a standard check up just to make sure she is as healthy as she seems.

Any tips or poiters are appreciated, this is my first snake, and hence my first ball. Thanks Alot guys!

Oh, I also have 1 more question, I noticed some of you guys move your ball's to feed them...I was told that you should not move the balls from thier cage to feed them cause that may stress them out and cause them not to eat?

[Big Mike]

If you use the astro turf, you can feed in the tank. You want to move the snake to feed it when it is kept on a sebstrate that may be swallowed when eating.

It will be easier if you get another piece of turf so that when you clean the tank you can put in a clean & dry piece while the other is washed and left to dry out.

Get a water dish that is big enough for the snake to get her whole body into of she wants.

What are you going to get for humidity? Balls do not need a lot of extra humidity. Don't get a mist making device. If you have a screen or cage covering the top of the tank you may want to cover it with something that will hold the humidity in the tank. A humid hide box would be good.

Make sure the tanks is secure or she will find a way to escape.

Don't handle her for at least a week (I know that's hard with a new snake :D ) or until she is feeding. Let her settle in to her new home.

You mentioned that you have a day time heat lamp and a night time heat lamp. That's OK as long as you are only heating one end of the tank to 80-85 degrees with a basking spot up to 90. The other end will be the cool end and should be kept 5-10 degrees cooler.

Pretty basic stuff that you probably already know so...good luck and congrats.

[nighter628]

I just got her Wedensday and she already eatting, she ate 2 small mice today =)

shes such a sweety! I wish I had a digital camera to post pictures.

[Big Mike]

That's great...don't forget that they shouldn't be handled for a few days after eating.

Congrats

[Lisa]

a baby ball python should be able to handle pinky or fuzzy rats. much easier to get them started on those right away then when they out grow mice. not to mention rats are better for the growing snake because at that size they have less fur and more fat which the snake needs to grow

[raebug2000]

fuzzy rats are great as feeders and if you feed live mice make sure that they are healthy ( no open sores or anything) i give my BP ten minutes of supervision when i feed. if they dont attack and kill in ten then i remove the prey and try later. this removes the danger of the snake being eaten.however my big BP has recieved one bite from a rat. ( not good) it was small and some ointment helped keep it clean and heal right.