JDouglas
01-26-04, 07:44 PM
Hey, I have just written breeding info for my care sheet that will be on my website. Although I have only bred IJCP once I have read most of the books on this subject and have had many converstations with experienced breeders. I also take very good notes and have learned to watch my animals and learn from them. I would like to thank Yasser and Favelle for the info they have given. Anyway, here is some breeding info I have written. If anyone sees any discrepencies or would like to add info please let me know. Keep in mind this info is what has worked for me in Iowa, in my climate, in my snake room. It may not neccesarily work for you as well as it did for me.
<p><b><u>Breeding IJCP</b></u>
<p>Irian Jaya carpet pythons reach sexual maturity anywhere from 18 months to 3 years of age. Breeding size occurs at lengths of 3' for males and 4 ˝’ for females. Irian Jaya carpet pythons breed December through early March. They can successfully breed and reproduce without cycling but it seems that most successful breeders generally provide a period of lower temps. For me cycling is easier and it gives more control, and thus a greater degree of predictability. Many also believe cooler temperatures are necessary for proper sperm and egg production. A gradual cooling begins in early November and continues through mid to late January. To provide this gradual cooling period we turn off the hot spot at night for twelve hours. The goal is to lower the ambient temps to 70-75F at night and back to 78-80F during the day with a hot spot of 90F. I feed my Irian Jaya carpets their last meal in mid November and allow them to empty their digestive system before completely shutting off their hotspot. In early December the hot spot is completely eliminated and temperature is kept between 70-75F. Pairs are introduced in mid December and mating is usually seen at this time. In early January the hot spot of 90F is restored during the day for 12 hours. Most mating is seen in the few weeks after first introduction and again when daytime heat is restored. If the male is courting the female he will follow her around the cage and eventually lay on her to attempt cloacal alignment. Spurring activity may also be witnessed. Copulation takes place when the male inserts a hemipene into the female’s cloaca. Tail wrapping is usually seen during copulation but some lazy males may only lay their tail under the females. I keep my males with my females for four days and remove them for a two to three day rest. Misting, reduced daylight hours, and male combating may help stimulate breeding in Irian Jaya carpet pythons. The hot spot is fully restored to 24 hours a day in early February and temps are at 78-80F with a hot spot of 90F. Females will begin to have a gradual swelling in the mid body region as egg follicles are developing. Many keepers are convinced that the female is pregnant but females are not gravid until ovulation occurs. If a male is removed at this time the female is capable of absorbing these follicles. Ovulation occurs when the mature follicles are pushed down into the fallopian tubes creating a massive condensed swelling just below mid body. If sperm from copulation is present the egg follicles will be fertilized and the female will become gravid. This swelling subsides in 24 hours. After ovulation you may notice the gradual swelling move down towards the cloaca. Males can be removed after ovulation or after showing lack of interest in the female. Females will need a localized hotspot of 90F to bask on while gravid. Before becoming gravid females like to be at about 80-83 degrees and rarely use the hot spot. This may allow the female to retain sperm until she ovulates. After ovulation the female will continually bask on the hot spot. If you notice your female basking a lot she is most likely gravid and the hot spot should be provided 24 hours a day. A temp gun is a very helpful tool that can be used to monitor the female’s body temperature. An increase in body temperature to 86-90F has been observed in gravid females. You may also witness the female laying in strange positions and expose her belly scales. Females usually shed about 2-3 weeks after ovulation. She will then lay her eggs 3-4 weeks after this shed. At the end of her gestation the female may seem restless and crawl around the cage. A suitable nesting box with damp substrate should be placed in her cage or eggs may be laid randomly in the enclosure. A small water bowl may also be placed in her cage to avoid the eggs being laid in the water. Eggs must be incubated at 88-91F with 100% humidity. The eggs will hatch about 60 days after being laid. All eggs should hatch within 24 hours of each other. If some eggs have not pipped within 24 hours of the first they can be carefully opened with scissors. Neonates may remain in their slit eggs for 24-48 hours and should not be removed. After 48 hours babies that have not left their egg can be removed. Babies will need to be kept very moist and humid until their first shed. After their first shed they can be offered their first meal.
<p><b><u>Breeding IJCP</b></u>
<p>Irian Jaya carpet pythons reach sexual maturity anywhere from 18 months to 3 years of age. Breeding size occurs at lengths of 3' for males and 4 ˝’ for females. Irian Jaya carpet pythons breed December through early March. They can successfully breed and reproduce without cycling but it seems that most successful breeders generally provide a period of lower temps. For me cycling is easier and it gives more control, and thus a greater degree of predictability. Many also believe cooler temperatures are necessary for proper sperm and egg production. A gradual cooling begins in early November and continues through mid to late January. To provide this gradual cooling period we turn off the hot spot at night for twelve hours. The goal is to lower the ambient temps to 70-75F at night and back to 78-80F during the day with a hot spot of 90F. I feed my Irian Jaya carpets their last meal in mid November and allow them to empty their digestive system before completely shutting off their hotspot. In early December the hot spot is completely eliminated and temperature is kept between 70-75F. Pairs are introduced in mid December and mating is usually seen at this time. In early January the hot spot of 90F is restored during the day for 12 hours. Most mating is seen in the few weeks after first introduction and again when daytime heat is restored. If the male is courting the female he will follow her around the cage and eventually lay on her to attempt cloacal alignment. Spurring activity may also be witnessed. Copulation takes place when the male inserts a hemipene into the female’s cloaca. Tail wrapping is usually seen during copulation but some lazy males may only lay their tail under the females. I keep my males with my females for four days and remove them for a two to three day rest. Misting, reduced daylight hours, and male combating may help stimulate breeding in Irian Jaya carpet pythons. The hot spot is fully restored to 24 hours a day in early February and temps are at 78-80F with a hot spot of 90F. Females will begin to have a gradual swelling in the mid body region as egg follicles are developing. Many keepers are convinced that the female is pregnant but females are not gravid until ovulation occurs. If a male is removed at this time the female is capable of absorbing these follicles. Ovulation occurs when the mature follicles are pushed down into the fallopian tubes creating a massive condensed swelling just below mid body. If sperm from copulation is present the egg follicles will be fertilized and the female will become gravid. This swelling subsides in 24 hours. After ovulation you may notice the gradual swelling move down towards the cloaca. Males can be removed after ovulation or after showing lack of interest in the female. Females will need a localized hotspot of 90F to bask on while gravid. Before becoming gravid females like to be at about 80-83 degrees and rarely use the hot spot. This may allow the female to retain sperm until she ovulates. After ovulation the female will continually bask on the hot spot. If you notice your female basking a lot she is most likely gravid and the hot spot should be provided 24 hours a day. A temp gun is a very helpful tool that can be used to monitor the female’s body temperature. An increase in body temperature to 86-90F has been observed in gravid females. You may also witness the female laying in strange positions and expose her belly scales. Females usually shed about 2-3 weeks after ovulation. She will then lay her eggs 3-4 weeks after this shed. At the end of her gestation the female may seem restless and crawl around the cage. A suitable nesting box with damp substrate should be placed in her cage or eggs may be laid randomly in the enclosure. A small water bowl may also be placed in her cage to avoid the eggs being laid in the water. Eggs must be incubated at 88-91F with 100% humidity. The eggs will hatch about 60 days after being laid. All eggs should hatch within 24 hours of each other. If some eggs have not pipped within 24 hours of the first they can be carefully opened with scissors. Neonates may remain in their slit eggs for 24-48 hours and should not be removed. After 48 hours babies that have not left their egg can be removed. Babies will need to be kept very moist and humid until their first shed. After their first shed they can be offered their first meal.