Problem with boa always thinking it’s feeding time

[Mr.MojoRisin]

Hello all. I recently purchased my first snake. The previous owner said that he fed the snake 3 times a week. Even as a first time owner I know that this is too much. I have put him on a “diet” (feeding once every other week). But my real question is this: what is the best way to get him to not always think it is feeding time? Every time I go to handle him he bites me. Just wondering if there was a good way to go about this.

Thank You in advance!

[craigafrechette]

Welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of snake keeping!

How long have you had the snake?

[Herpin' Man]

I have a few snakes that always think it's feeding time. I use a small cage hook to partially lift them. They generally seem to realize that they aren't being fed at that point, allowing me to handle them without having my hand or other appendages consumed by them.

[EL Ziggy]

I agree hook training is a great idea. I use it with all my critters.

[richardhind]

welcome to the forum
definitely dont feed your new boa 3 times a week it will soon make him seriously over weight and reduce his lifespan.you dont say how old he is?, ive always fed 1 appropriate size food once a week till 1 year. then every 2 weeks 1-2 year then 3 years every 3 weeks and then monthly when they upto large rats.
hook training is definitely a good option, i personally feel is a must . save your hand getting munched especially if he thinks hes being fed 3 times a week.
all you do is give him a few strokes with it or more if hes still in food mode , to show its not food time then pick him out if he will let you , i use the soft end just in case he strike as the metal end so not to damage his teeth, you can always use a kitchen roll if you dont have a hook, surprising how fast they learn this
good luck and theirs plenty of people on here to help and dont forget some pics

[Mr.MojoRisin]

welcome to the forum
definitely dont feed your new boa 3 times a week it will soon make him seriously over weight and reduce his lifespan.you dont say how old he is?, ive always fed 1 appropriate size food once a week till 1 year. then every 2 weeks 1-2 year then 3 years every 3 weeks and then monthly when they upto large rats.
hook training is definitely a good option, i personally feel is a must . save your hand getting munched especially if he thinks hes being fed 3 times a week.
all you do is give him a few strokes with it or more if hes still in food mode , to show its not food time then pick him out if he will let you , i use the soft end just in case he strike as the metal end so not to damage his teeth, you can always use a kitchen roll if you dont have a hook, surprising how fast they learn this
good luck and theirs plenty of people on here to help and dont forget some pics

I was told he is 1-2 years old. I was also told to keep him on the diet for awhile because the previous owner definitely made him overweight. Definitely going to look into the hook training seems like a smart thing to do! Never fun having my little guy latch onto my hand. Thanks for the help man!

[Mr.MojoRisin]

Welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of snake keeping!

How long have you had the snake?


Just got the snake yesterday! I was told before I got him that he was a bit aggressive but it seems that he just thinks my hand is food!

[Mr.MojoRisin]

Going to try and get started on hook training any recommendations on a good way to go about this? Like I said new to snakes but have been around reptiles for a couple years now (mostly bearded dragons) but I definitely would love to handle my guy without worrying about getting my hand bitten

[EL Ziggy]

Hook training is very simple. Use a snake hook, paper towel roll, or any non harmful object and just tap/rub your critter on his head or side before taking him out for handling. It usually kills that food response right away.

[kazz]

it will soon make him seriously over weight and reduce his lifespan.

I have heard it a lot of times but can't understand how it works ?:confused:

[Scubadiver59]

Agree......

Hook training is very simple. Use a snake hook, paper towel roll, or any non harmful object and just tap/rub your critter on his head or side before taking him out for handling. It usually kills that food response right away.

[kudzu]

I have heard it a lot of times but can't understand how it works ?:confused:


Conditioned response is part of it.

[kudzu]

Conditioned response is part of it.


Posted to the wrong thread. Sorry. Has nothing to do with your question.

[richardhind]

I have heard it a lot of times but can't understand how it works ?:confused:

its like humans eating sweet sugary things all the time and block your arteries up with fatty deposits
animals also get like this, they would not eat this much in the wild
and boas have a slower metabolism than pythons

[bigsnakegirl785]

Mr.MojoRisin, you've only had this snake for a couple of days, max. I would leave him alone at minimum 7 days from the last time you handled him. New arrivals can be quite defensive, even without a diet in the equation.

In the case of a defensive bite (where they bite and release):
Once a full week has transpired, then attempt to feed. Assuming he takes that no problem, then you can begin short handling sessions. I normally just do 2-5 minutes at a time, either a couple times a week or a couple times a month. With time, they generally come around.

Be sure to respect the snake's boundaries. If it hisses or strikes when you open the enclosure, do not handle. Do little things like change the water daily, rummage for poop, etc. so it gets used to your presence. But do not touch the snake.

If you must remove the snake, such as for cleanings, put the snake straight into a dark enclosed container until you are done, and put it straight back in the enclosure. Do not open the enclosure for at least a few days after.

If there comes a time you can open the enclosure and move around without him striking/hissing, then take him out. If he hisses or strikes when you touch him, that's ok. Handle for a couple of minutes and put him back. Be prepared to get bitten: use heavy duty gloves, or mentally prepare yourself so that you don't pull back or flinch when they bite. Don't want to pull out his teeth, and you'll get less damage if you don't pull back.

Be prepared for a snake that remains hands-off if he remains defensive even after several years. I'm not a fan of forcing snakes into being docile by handling them until they stop: it breaches their autonomy and is very stressful.

In the case of a feeding bite (where they bite and wrap):
Use a hook, as mentioned, just rub or tap a few times before reaching in. I wouldn't pick the snake up with the hook, but you can push their head away with it if they go over the hook after your hand.

Use gloves as well (if you so choose), at least until you have confidence not to use them.

Just give him time to work out his new diet, the grouchiness should fade as he settles into the new routine. Also be sure to wash hands thoroughly before handling, and do not handle on the same day you feed any of your other snakes (if you have them).

I have heard it a lot of times but can't understand how it works ?:confused:

Every time a snake eats, it gains 2-3x the mass of its intestinal tract, heart, and kidneys. It also drastically ramps up the strength of its digestive juices. Once the prey is digested, the tissue starts to shed off into the bloodstream. It takes time for this to be repurposed and the blood levels to return to normal. They will also continue shedding tissue for awhile after actually defecating, before their tissue walls return to a resting state.

The physical strain of not allowing a snake to go through this "feast and famine" cycle affects the physical structure of their liver, heart, and digestive tract. They will also grow rapidly to make up for the intake of food, which can cause skeletal problems when this type of feeding is ongoing. With weakened organs, they can succumb to a variety of different health issues.

In addition, snakes with abnormally large fat deposits are at heightened risk of fatty liver disease or similar diseases, where the excess fat travels to the liver and inflames it. Without rigorous vet treatment, this can result in death. Reptiles suffering from this disease can refuse food and rapidly lose weight. I am not sure what tends to trigger these episodes, but it happens often enough I see it discussed.

[Captain837]

All of our aspedities think it is feeding time all of the time. Hook training helped with 1 so far but with the others I have to remove them from their enclosure with a hook and place them in a bucket for about 10 min to let them go from feeding mode to exploring mode. At that point they are all pretty chill.