New Carpet Hatchling

[toddnbecka]

Picked this one up at the Hamburg show Saturday. Unsexed, labeled as a jungle cross. The sellers table had a wide variety of reptiles, and I heard a number of people asking about one or another being told that the sellers didn't know, they had been traded. Apparently they own a pet store and were selling whatever random animals they had taken in. There were 3 of these hatchlings, all looked pretty similar, but this one was visibly a little larger than the other 2. I held a smaller one first, then this one, both were quite docile. The seller said they were eating live pinky's, and had only eaten 1-2 times previously. The price was $60, all 3 looked good overall, so I took a chance. Good idea or not, what do you think?
Beautiful little snake, haven't handled other than to move it into the new setup (29 gallon tank, UTH pad on the far end, will be placing a 100W ceramic heat bulb on top as soon as it arrives this week) and to put him (?) back down into the tank today when I took the top off. Likes to hang out around the top rim of the tank, something I've noticed the DRMB's also do at night, but they go under cover in the hides or among the silk ivy leaves for the day. This one was still lurking about the top this afternoon when I took the lid off to check, so I took a couple quick pics. Any clue what the "cross" would be? Ideas for a name? For size reference, the tank is 12" wide:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/toddnbecka/Snakes/529b6f23-98f9-4b7d-9876-4d93c81abbac_zpsa87af02c.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/toddnbecka/media/Snakes/529b6f23-98f9-4b7d-9876-4d93c81abbac_zpsa87af02c.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/toddnbecka/Snakes/P1060478_zps25525b8d.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/toddnbecka/media/Snakes/P1060478_zps25525b8d.jpg.html)

[Jim Smith]

Cute little guy. Should be a very pretty snake when it grows up. Please keep us posted with photos.

[EL Ziggy]

Sounds like a good deal on a nice looking carpet TnB! Congrats on the new addition.

[MDT]

With carpets, there is no way to know what the cross is unless you had lineage info from (reputable) breeder. You have a great looking carpet tho.

Before you crank up the ceramic heat bulb, get a thermostat. Seriously. Herpstat or Vivarium Electronics. It'll save you from turning your awesome snake into a strip of beef jerky.

There are a bunch of really knowledgable carpet python guys on the board here. Pick their brains...they will save you heartache.

[toddnbecka]

I've noticed this one doesn't hang around the other end of the tank where the heat mat is, temp there is 79. Always on the cool end where it's 72, same hide setup at both ends. Do they typically prefer lower temps than boas? I thought snakes would instinctively move to warmer or cooler areas to regulate their body temp, yet I often find mine hanging out in cooler areas where temps are significantly lower than their supposed preferred comfort zone. I was thinking the ceramic heat bulb would raise the ambient temp on the cool end a bit, would think 72 is too low?
After dealing with aquarium heaters for most of my life I have little faith in thermostats in general. I use a rheostat on the larger UTH under the 55 gallon tank, the smaller UTH heaters don't get as hot, while the ceramic heaters hand just above the screen tops. No reflectors around the bulbs, and the whole screen top is open, so while they do warm the insides of the tanks a bit the heat isn't trapped, even on one end.

Any advice from experienced carpet python keepers on setting up the enclosure and general care would be much appreciated. I'll be building new larger ones before the tanks become too small, but for the time being they're convenient and inexpensive starting points.

[toddnbecka]

I'm thinking this one would be fine with rat pinkies? Any advice on switching from live to f/t? I also have a bag of day-old quail chicks that my DMRB's (usually) eat w/out any problems.

[MDT]

Well.....i've been keeping snakes since the 70's, and specifically carpets for about 10 years. The use of a quality thermostat designed for use in herpetoculture (again, Herpstat or Vivarium Electronics) is pretty much considered "standard of care"..Also, lose the screen top (or cover 80-90% with plywood or plexi). You cannot control humidity with an open top and direct heat source (I guess unless you live in a crazy humid place)....I try to keep my humidity around the 50% range and find that shedding, feeding, etc is not a problem. I think you'll find that with a 29 gal and direct heat like 100w ceramic, it will be difficult to establish a proper thermal gradient either horizontally or vertically.

Switching to f/t *usually* isn't an issue. make sure it's thoroughly thawed and warm (like live prey warm), and long forceps....you should be able to gently present the thawed prey in front of your snake and "wiggle" it a bit...it may take a few attempts, but I've had pretty good luck so far after 3-4 attempts... Switching from mice to rats is a whole different issue though in carpets...

If you can, pick up a copy of The Complete Carpet Python by Nick Mutton and Justin Julander....the best $60 you'll ever spend. Also, check out Carpet Python Care (http://www.acreptiles.com/main/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=81&Itemid=140) for a quick and dirty check sheet...

As far as the carpet guys here...Derek Roddy, Shuanyboy, and there are many more who have tons more experience than I do...I pester these guys probably more than they would like for advice.... they are a tremendous resource.

Keep posting pics and updates of your snake....We always love to see that stuff.

Best of luck..

[toddnbecka]

My basement houses 11 aquariums from 40 to 220 gallons. The ambient humidity is above 70%, and in the 55 and 38 gallon tanks currently housing my yearling DRMB's the humidity never drops below 50% with ceramic heat bulbs on screen tops. I have noticed the humidity needs to be higher for shedding though, looking for a solution for that. The boas also have an UTH under one end of their tank, opposite end from the ceramic heater. They never hide directly above/on the UTH; 3/4 on the end with the ceramic heater, 1 well above the UTH (halfway up the side) in the silk ivy plant. I found some small coated wire corner shelves at Wal-Mart, and used plastic canvas with eggcrate packing foam to make hides that allow them to choose how close to the ceramic heater they stay.

Based on my observations of the boas that have similar requirements and are also semi-arboreal, I thought the carpet python setup should be similar.
Ordered the book from Amazon, bookmarked the care sheet, thanks.

[shaunyboy]

buy .....

Keeping and Breeding Australian Pythons,edited by,Mike Swan

its pretty much the Carpet Bible mate

i got it sent direct from Australia for £50 (($75)


re temperatures
hot end i give them a basking spot of roughly 88F,cool end high 70's F to low 80's F

you will get better more accurate consistent temperatures when you switch to your ceramic set up

heat mats don't do much if anything for ambient air temperatures

a ceramic bulb,bulb guard and a thermostat imo is the easiest way to keep your carpet



cheers shaun

P.S. MDT Don't be selling yourself short,you know your Carpets mate

[toddnbecka]

re temperatures
hot end i give them a basking spot of roughly 88F,cool end high 70's F to low 80's F
a ceramic bulb,bulb guard and a thermostat imo is the easiest way to keep your carpet

Pretty much the same temp range as the DRMB's. How do you maintain humidity with the ceramic heaters? I'm thinking simply dumping a bit of water on the aspen and paper bedding under the ceramic bulb area should raise it a bit, would last longer than misting anyway. I've never yet seen any of the boas actually hide directly on the substrate. I have elevated hides at both ends, and so far the new carpet hatchling has been doing the same thing.

[toddnbecka]

buy .....

Keeping and Breeding Australian Pythons,edited by,Mike Swan

its pretty much the Carpet Bible mate

i got it sent direct from Australia for £50 (($75)


re temperatures
hot end i give them a basking spot of roughly 88F,cool end high 70's F to low 80's F

you will get better more accurate consistent temperatures when you switch to your ceramic set up

heat mats don't do much if anything for ambient air temperatures

a ceramic bulb,bulb guard and a thermostat imo is the easiest way to keep your carpet



cheers shaun

P.S. MDT Don't be selling yourself short,you know your Carpets mate

The heat mat was only intended to be a short-term arrangement. I didn't expect to buy the carpet python at the show, but it looked good and seemed to have a mellow disposition. I grabbed a small heat mat to keep it warmer than room temp until I could get the ceramic bulb setup this week.

How do you maintain humidity with the ceramic heaters? I'm thinking simply dumping a bit of water on the aspen and paper bedding under the ceramic bulb area should raise it a bit, would last longer than misting anyway. I've never yet seen any of the boas actually hide directly on the substrate. I have elevated hides at both ends they use, and so far the new carpet hatchling has been doing the same thing.

[IW17]

I use a Che in my boa enclosure. Even with it having a closed top and front sliding doors, I need a large water bowl to keep the humidity between 40-50% in the summer. They suck up the moisture. In all honesty, you either need to ditch the screen top or get creative. What I do with some of my aquarium tanks is buy cheap thin plexiglass and cut it to the same size as the tank. Then place the screen over it and lock it down. Works great. Just gotta drill air holes.

[toddnbecka]

I use a Che in my boa enclosure. Even with it having a closed top and front sliding doors, I need a large water bowl to keep the humidity between 40-50% in the summer. They suck up the moisture. In all honesty, you either need to ditch the screen top or get creative. What I do with some of my aquarium tanks is buy cheap thin plexiglass and cut it to the same size as the tank. Then place the screen over it and lock it down. Works great. Just gotta drill air holes.

Doesn't thin plexi bow and sag? I tried using it for aquariums with water/fish and found the warmth did that. Didn't have that problem with lexan, but it's harder to come by. I do have glass tops for the tanks, could use those under the screen, leaving a couple areas open for ventilation.

[MDT]

As IW17 suggested, just get creative. Cover the screen about 80% to start off with something occlusive. Formica, plexi, glass....just to help hold temp and humidity constant. Once you get your thermostat and temp probe set up, the enclosure temp will be taken care of..a hygrometer is nice to have to check humidity. If you have a few extra bucks, an IR temp gun is handy too...PXTPE1 TG1 Infrared Thermometer Temp Gun - Pro Exotics Cars/Trucks (http://www.advantagehobby.com/244836/PXTPE1/?utm_source=google+shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=product&gclid=CKGZ1oSAwcECFQgDaQodOL4A9g) .

[shaunyboy]

Pretty much the same temp range as the DRMB's. How do you maintain humidity with the ceramic heaters? I'm thinking simply dumping a bit of water on the aspen and paper bedding under the ceramic bulb area should raise it a bit, would last longer than misting anyway. I've never yet seen any of the boas actually hide directly on the substrate. I have elevated hides at both ends, and so far the new carpet hatchling has been doing the same thing.

re aspen
i and all the carpet keepers i know,stopped using aspen,due to it's high dust content causing mild respiratory symptoms in some of our carpets

re humidity
room humidity here in the UK is 40% to 70%,so i don't do anything for humidity,some of the folk who have to deal with raising humidity may let you know how they achieve it ?

as far as i know adding a large bowl of water in to the hot end of the tank raises humidity


cheers shaun

[millertime89]

Don't dump water on Aspen, it molds quickly. Cypress comes pretty wet from the bag so you won't have to mist much for a while but You can definitely pour some water on the cypress when it starts to dry. That's what I do. You can also just run a humidifier in the room if it suits you.

[IW17]

Doesn't thin plexi bow and sag? I tried using it for aquariums with water/fish and found the warmth did that. Didn't have that problem with lexan, but it's harder to come by. I do have glass tops for the tanks, could use those under the screen, leaving a couple areas open for ventilation.

That's my bad. I use lexan. Good catch. But I have no problems with it sagging.

[toddnbecka]

Back in the 80's when I had a red tail boa and was catching/briefly keeping various native species newspaper was used for substrate. Not shredded of crumpled, just layered flat on the bottom. Never had any problems with any species of snakes with that, usually 1 clean piece when they shed. Any reason not to use it now?

As for the humidity, since the weather is turning cooler and the (gas) furnace is running instead of the A/C the ambient humidity in the basement is lower, but still above 50% in the snake aquariums even with the ceramic heaters. Would radiant heat panels be a worthwhile upgrade?

[Joshchimera]

Very nice baby.

[IW17]

Back in the 80's when I had a red tail boa and was catching/briefly keeping various native species newspaper was used for substrate. Not shredded of crumpled, just layered flat on the bottom. Never had any problems with any species of snakes with that, usually 1 clean piece when they shed. Any reason not to use it now?

As for the humidity, since the weather is turning cooler and the (gas) furnace is running instead of the A/C the ambient humidity in the basement is lower, but still above 50% in the snake aquariums even with the ceramic heaters. Would radiant heat panels be a worthwhile upgrade?

Honestly I use newspaper for all but one enclosure. It works great and clean up is easy. Just looks butt ugly. And if you can keep your humidity up a heat panel isn't necessary but they're just so much more efficient. They keep humidity better, last forever, and you never have to worry about your animal getting burned. But it's really a personal choice.

[toddnbecka]

I'm thinking to use rhp's when I build larger, more permanent enclosures in another year or two. The aquariums were handy, and I can set up the ceramic heat bulbs for around $20 each. I ordered a couple more rheostats to dial back the heat a bit if necessary, but so far they seem to be alright w/out them. The little bugger ventured out of the hide since the ambient temp is more suitable, didn't seem to affect the mellow disposition though.
I cleaned the aspen out of the carpet python tank, shop vac is great for that. Just newspaper now, and will likely be doing the same with the other setups when they need cleaned again.
The only info I got from the sellers was that it had only eaten a time or two, and was of course still on live food. What should I offer it to eat now that it's warmed up and active? I have 1 day old quail chicks and rat pinkies in the freezer. Any hope of it eating either of those, or should I stay with live a bit longer?

[IW17]

You can offer food whenever. I always offer food within 24 hours of coming home. Some eat, some don't. But there's no reason imo not too.

[millertime89]

Honestly I use newspaper for all but one enclosure. It works great and clean up is easy. Just looks butt ugly. And if you can keep your humidity up a heat panel isn't necessary but they're just so much more efficient. They keep humidity better, last forever, and you never have to worry about your animal getting burned. But it's really a personal choice.

I use newspaper for all but 4 enclosures. Doesn't hold humidity well but it's super easy to clean and I mist the animals as needed. They frequently push their water bowls over the hot spots anyways to bump it up.

[MDT]

yep...newspaper here too. just so much easier to clean... and my enclosures don't have any open tops like screens, so the humidity is controlled pretty well.

[toddnbecka]

I'm starting to get concerned. It's been 2 weeks now, and he/she still hasn't eaten. Closest was a few days ago, seemed interested in a f/t quail chick, but after a minute or two of tongue flicking and swaying a little just turned away. No interest in f/t rat pinks, and I've left both in the enclosure overnight.
No live hopper mice available locally, will call a couple pet shops further away tomorrow and see if I can track any down.

[MDT]

todd (or becca) have you tried a f/t mouse hopper? i have a small djj that was really (i mean really) finicky when i first got him. it took some coaxing, but after about 4-5 attempts w f/t hopper/fuzzies warmed and wiggled w forceps, he's actually pretty much money now. occasionally, i'll have to leave in over night, but overall he'll take them. you could at least pick up a box of the "arctic mice" from petsmart (i think it's like $10.00 or so of a box of 6 fuzzies, so may be a bit more for hoppers), but at least you'd know and maybe get a bit of food down him/her... good luck...he'll start eating soon enough for you though.

[Mikoh4792]

Don't get concerned only after two weeks. I just received a new jungle carpet two weeks ago. I always try to feed the same night they arrive and if they don't take, I will offer food once a week until they do take...making sure that temps and other conditions are correct along the way and I don't handle whatsoever unless they go to the bathroom. My jungle just took it's first rat with me last night and I expect it to take every week from now on. Some just take a bit longer to get started after their move.


edit: And to note, the previous owner(the breeder) had my little guy on mice before which might also explain why he didn't take the rats at first.

[toddnbecka]

I got 1m/3f live mice today, figure I might as well start raising some for feeders, particularly if the carpet python will only take mice. It looked like it had been fed recently when we picked it up at the show, had a couple small lumps then, but I haven't seen any poop in the cage yet. I wouldn't be surprised if it wouldn't eat until after it pooped, but I've never known any snake to go for 2 weeks after eating w/out pooping.
The cool end temp is 80, and there's a hide situated close to the che that's close to 90. I did have to move the snake down from the tank rim today, got some foam board and cut it to fit the top to help maintain humidity. Was using a couple sheets of glass over the screen top, the foam board is cut with a 6" square opening for the che. Humidity has been steady at 48%, the new arrangement is just easier to work with.
I'll try a f/t hopper mouse tomorrow night.

[toddnbecka]

I brained a f/t fuzzy and offered it with tongs last night. The python seemed interested, but after a minute or two of tongue flicking over the mouse was more interested in climbing the tongs. I left the mouse near the python, and left them alone for an hour. When I went back the mouse was still there, near the bottom corner, where the python had been sleeping when I offered the mouse.
The python was near the top of the enclosure, and proceeded to check out a new hide I placed on the "ceiling" to see if that would be preferred to the lower levels. I placed the mouse in the front corner of the new hide and left it over night. When I checked today it was gone, and the python is curled up in a silk ivy plant, warm but not the hot spot.

[Mikoh4792]

Sounds good. Some snakes will eat when the food is just left on the floor. I've had snakes that had to eat that way the first couple of times and then started to strike/eat from then on.

[toddnbecka]

Ever since eating the mouse the new hangout is the water bowl, either completely submerged or hanging over the side, usually with most of the body in the water. Previously there was more activity, generally moving around the enclosure at night, then staying in one place all day. Now I don't think he/she ever leaves the water bowl. Any thoughts on the change in behavior?

[MDT]

My juvi DJJ will eat and then spend 2-3 days (I'm guessing, he may "do stuff" at night, I just don't see it) soaking. Like, never leaving the water dish soaking.... After that, he climbs his perch until poo time and the cycle starts all over again. Not sure what the change in your snake's behavior may mean, but you're not alone.

[toddnbecka]

Over a week ago the eyes went blue, and it alternated between soaking in the water bowl and hanging out in the 95 degree zone. About 2 days ago the skin came off the head in little fragments, but the rest wasn't moving. A warm bath in the sink and a wet washcloth still weren't doing it, so I folded the washcloth over the snake and placed it back in the cage, under the CHE, before I went to work.
When I got home the snake hadn't moved much, but along with the (still wet) washcloth it was warm, and the old skin was soft and looser. Didn't take too long to get the old skin off, and the python was visibly happier and more comfortable, even seemed to appreciate the assistance with the shed.
Here's a few pics of the freshly peeled python:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/toddnbecka/Snakes/P1060522_zpsc395652b.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/toddnbecka/media/Snakes/P1060522_zpsc395652b.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/toddnbecka/Snakes/P1060523_zps86c8471b.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/toddnbecka/media/Snakes/P1060523_zps86c8471b.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/toddnbecka/Snakes/P1060521_zpsacec90c8.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/toddnbecka/media/Snakes/P1060521_zpsacec90c8.jpg.html)

Still has the same gentle disposition, hasn't struck or bitten anything. Seemed content to hang out for a while after the old skin came off, but the room temp is quite a bit lower than the cage temp so I didn't want to handle too long. I won't feel so bad when it's bigger, and has more body mass to retain heat longer.