View Full Version : I'm having trouble preparing for a BP.
Hi,
I'm looking into getting a Ball Python as my second pet snake. I've had a Corn Snake for the last 3-4 years, so I know the basics of snake keeping at least. I've been doing some researching (okay, mostly browsing various forums and reading care sheets), so I think I know the basics, but I've had trouble getting a suitable setup ready, and what kind of supplies I'd prefer. I have a 10 gallon tank, an UTH (which runs the length of the side), and a CHE with a Zilla temperature controller, bedding, hides, water dish, thermo/hygrometer. I realize that this stuff isn't exactly the most appropiate. My idea at the time was using the heat pad to get a good ambient temperature, and the CHE would create a hot spot, but I'm not sure of this setup, and whether it would work, or what would work. My room's temperature is lower than the ideal cool end temps for Balls, so I think I'd have to heat both ends differently, but I'm really not quite sure what I am doing. I could really use some help.
SnakeyJay
07-23-13, 03:23 AM
The che will control ambient temp n hotspot itself.. 10gallon is a very small space to have 2 heating devices mate so I'd take out the matt.. You'll struggle to keep a cold end otherwise..
The che should heat the cold end a bit and keep it within the required parameters.
Lankyrob
07-23-13, 04:07 AM
If its a ten gallon tank then using a che will suck every drop of humidity out of the tank.
If you really want to prepare for the best home for your snake then use a tub or a viv not a tank, everything will be MUCH easier then.
Mikoh4792
07-23-13, 04:31 AM
If its a ten gallon tank then using a che will suck every drop of humidity out of the tank.
If you really want to prepare for the best home for your snake then use a tub or a viv not a tank, everything will be MUCH easier then.
Basically this. On my 10 gallon tanks I only use a fluorescent light on top and use an under tank heater. The light alone will dry out the tank very quickly. I would say the undertank heater is sufficient for summer time and if it gets cold in your area in the winter you can supplement the heat with a CHE and something to cover the screen top.
If its a ten gallon tank then using a che will suck every drop of humidity out of the tank.
If you really want to prepare for the best home for your snake then use a tub or a viv not a tank, everything will be MUCH easier then.
Would a tub have a proper temperature gradient with only an under tank heater?
Terranaut
07-23-13, 01:57 PM
Would a tub have a proper temperature gradient with only an under tank heater?
That would depend on many variables. For a royal the tub is an infinately better option than a ten gallon aquarium.
I would buy a tub and set it all up. Uth on the bottom to one side. Air holes in the sides not the top, add substrate like reptibark or cypress , 2hides ,a water bowl and give it a day or 2 to level out. Then check it for humidity and temps. If they are off, fix it.
Get a tub with a good solid snap locking top.
Once you get the husbandry spot on then get a royal.
I have given this advice to many but few actually listen. You will save a world of frustration by using this method.
Concept9
07-23-13, 02:08 PM
That would depend on many variables. For a royal the tub is an infinately better option than a ten gallon aquarium.
I would buy a tub and set it all up. Uth on the bottom to one side. Air holes in the sides not the top, add substrate like reptibark or cypress , 2hides ,a water bowl and give it a day or 2 to level out. Then check it for humidity and temps. If they are off, fix it.
Get a tub with a good solid snap locking top.
Once you get the husbandry spot on then get a royal.
I have given this advice to many but few actually listen. You will save a world of frustration by using this method.
I listened and it works. :)
24802
That would depend on many variables. For a royal the tub is an infinately better option than a ten gallon aquarium.
I would buy a tub and set it all up. Uth on the bottom to one side. Air holes in the sides not the top, add substrate like reptibark or cypress , 2hides ,a water bowl and give it a day or 2 to level out. Then check it for humidity and temps. If they are off, fix it.
Get a tub with a good solid snap locking top.
Once you get the husbandry spot on then get a royal.
I have given this advice to many but few actually listen. You will save a world of frustration by using this method.
Would Aspen work? What do you use to place the ventilation holes? I bought a Herpstat to use for a heat mat, and it has a probe to measure the temps. Should this be placed outside or inside the tub? My Corn also has one, and I have the probe inside of his warm hide. Could I place different size holes to accomodate temp/stat probes? What size tub would you recommend for a snake up to two feet in length?
Concept9
07-23-13, 02:27 PM
Substrata will depend a little on what your house humidity is at.
If you have high humidity, try aspen. If you have low humidity try Cyprus mulch or repti-Bark.
I used a 1/4" drill and eye balled them. Some people use the little round soldering iron and melt the holes in.
Temp prob should be put inside on top the substrate where the BP is going to be.
I made separate hole for my prob to enter near where I was placing it.
I have my 2ft BP in a 48l Sterilite tube. As long as the snake has room to stretch out is fine.
But as said above. Build your tube first, test it for a couple days before putting the snake in.
UTH's don't heat the air temperatures, right? Won't the side not heated by the UTH be room temperature (which is too cold for the Ball)?
Terranaut
07-26-13, 11:40 AM
Sorry I missed this for a couple days. A uth will heat the air a bit. What is your house temp?
Mikoh4792
07-26-13, 12:08 PM
UTH's don't heat the air temperatures, right? Won't the side not heated by the UTH be room temperature (which is too cold for the Ball)?
If you are using just a 10 gallon tank, an undertank heater should be sufficient. Especially if you cover the screen top.
Right now I am using a fluoresecent fixture to light the enclosure and right now(summertime) I have to keep a close eye so that the enclosure doesn't over heat.
Sorry I missed this for a couple days. A uth will heat the air a bit. What is your house temp?
About 75, give or take a couple in the summer, but it cools down to 60 in the winter months.
Mikoh4792
07-26-13, 01:59 PM
About 75, give or take a couple in the summer, but it cools down to 60 in the winter months.
75 is fine. In the winter I would either heat the room or have a low wattage bulb for ambient air temps(25-40 watt) is all you will need for a tank as small as 10 gallons.
Terranaut
07-26-13, 03:27 PM
My wife would move out at 60º.
Heat the room to 7?º. This will balance everything out same as summer.
75 is fine. In the winter I would either heat the room or have a low wattage bulb for ambient air temps(25-40 watt) is all you will need for a tank as small as 10 gallons.
My wife would move out at 60º.
Heat the room to 7?º. This will balance everything out same as summer.
So, provided that room temperature remains stable at around 75, the climate inside of the enclosure will be adequate?
Also, I was planning on getting a tub instead of a tank for now (I'll use the 10 gallon for when my Emp gets bigger). The temps will stay sufficient as long as I have heat one side?
Mikoh4792
07-26-13, 04:43 PM
So, provided that room temperature remains stable at around 75, the climate inside of the enclosure will be adequate?
Also, I was planning on getting a tub instead of a tank for now (I'll use the 10 gallon for when my Emp gets bigger). The temps will stay sufficient as long as I have heat one side?
If you are going to use a tub the heat should be sufficient until Winter. If your room gets to 60F as you say, you should put the tub near some sort of heat such as a heat lamp.
You can hang the heat lamp about 6 inches above the tub and place the thermostat probe directly on top of the tub and set it to "x" temperature so that the cool side gets to 75f+.
If you are going to use a tub the heat should be sufficient until Winter. If your room gets to 60F as you say, you should put the tub near some sort of heat such as a heat lamp.
You can hang the heat lamp about 6 inches above the tub and place the thermostat probe directly on top of the tub and set it to "x" temperature so that the cool side gets to 75f+.
Cool side temps are supposed to be in the low eighties, no?
Mikoh4792
07-26-13, 05:46 PM
Cool side temps are supposed to be in the low eighties, no?
High 70's low 80's. I personally keep them above 78F.
EDIT: During the day I give my ball pythons a 92F hotspot, ambient air temps of 80-84f. I give them a night drop to about 85F warm side and the rest of the enclosure will be around 78F.
High 70's low 80's. I personally keep them above 78F.
EDIT: During the day I give my ball pythons a 92F hotspot, ambient air temps of 80-84f. I give them a night drop to about 85F warm side and the rest of the enclosure will be around 78F.
How do you keep and maintain those particular temps? What's the temp outside of the enclosure?
Mikoh4792
07-26-13, 09:41 PM
How do you keep and maintain those particular temps? What's the temp outside of the enclosure?
Racking system
I heat 23x16x6 tubs with 4" wide heat tape. The rack itself is made of PVC so the walls insulate the heat. Even when the room gets to 75F the coolside during the day will be 80-84F.
It may be harder to do if you use a tub and just leave it in the open with one heat source. If your house really gets that cold in the Winter I would use the method I suggested above. Either that or keep the tub in an enclosed area that will insulate heat (solid walls like a racking system).
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