General newb questioning!!?!

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Let's start off saying HELLO! This is my first post, I imagine I'll frequent this section mostly so I'll start out posting here.

I am Josh, from Florida, I have a 9month old(15") female Rosy boa named Zelda. This is my first snake, my brother has had them in past so I've had an idea of them; I've raised Cuban tree frogs for acouple years now, caring for pets is nothing new to me.

A good friend of my breeds various herps and while he was on a herping trip in Arizona I purchased his daughter(with his money) her first car!!(VWTDI)
So, in October he got lucky with his Rosy boas he offered me one for my troubles in searching for a car for her, naturally I excepted.

I have set up a whole tank for her, she seems to love it, I think I'm doing okay as a dad so far. I am using 'Play Sand(heated to 165*)' from HD, rocks I found are the yard, acouple of cacti I bought and I purchased some lights, heated and just day lights and such. I have her setup with a hot and cold shelter, rock to absorb heat and a clay water bowl I made.

So I start this thread hoping to make it a general discussion area for me to learn. I'd like anyone to post 'random' tips about Rosys that seems important
Or just anything that seems important about them.

Right now I have fed her 2thawed pinkies per feeding, every 13 days. When do I need to increase her feeding or shorten her intervals between meals?

She currently doesn't like me reaching into her enclosure and getting her, I only reach in when she's out wandering. I can grab her with the hook place her in my hand and she is totally fine. Why is she being a butthead about me getting her? How do I break her of it?

Does anyone know of any good YouTube videos for general handling/picking up procedures for snakes in general or Rosys?

Sorry for the novel, hope to see some advice soon.
-Josh/Zelda

[EL Ziggy]

Hi Josh, welcome to the forum. I don't know much about pythons but I'm sure someone more experienced will chime in soon. Good luck with your new "baby"

[Aaron_S]

Hi Josh, welcome to the forum. I don't know much about pythons but I'm sure someone more experienced will chime in soon. Good luck with your new "baby"

It's a boa, not a python.


Don't worry about the cage defensiveness. Keep using the hook. Much easier that way.


Feeding, I'd feed your snake every 7 days and if she's eating two pinks I'd offer 1 fuzzy.

I'd get rid of the play sand. Aspen beta chip is much better. Easier to clean, looks great, they can burrow and if ingested it's small enough to pass with ease.

[sweatshirt]

Welcome :] Rosys are beautiful

[Chu'Wuti]

My suggestion is for you to begin by reading Rosy Boa care sheets and read through Rosy Boa threads on this forum. I have three major concerns, along with some minor concerns: your temperatures, your feeding period, and your substrate. Your temperature is the scariest--you've posted: I am using 'Play Sand(heated to 165*)' from HD.

Heated to 165 degrees Fahrenheit? Seriously? I hope that was a typo. Sand can be a risk in that if the snake ingests it, it can cause impactions and possibly internal lacerations along the interior of the gut.n Young Rosies need to be fed more often than every 13 days--every 4-7 or 5-7 days is generally recommended.

Here are links to some care sheets for Rosy Boas:

rosyboas.com v3.2 (http://www.rosyboas.com/index.php?c=captive)

ww.vmsherp.com/CarePages/CareRosyBoa.htm

Rosy Boa care - Bane Reptiles (http://banereptiles.weebly.com/rosy-boa-care.html)

Good luck with your new Rosy! They are beautiful snakes!

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Play sand, as far as cleaning and such, I am not feeding in tank in case of mess and to keep her from being aggressive(feeding) in tank.

The 165 isn't a typo, however I didn't go into detail.
For all my setups, reptile or amphibian I bake all my substrate to "165*" to kill bacteria and eggs. Then after it COOLS I setup my aquariums. :) I don't store my dang snake at 165degrees!!!! Ha

I'll definitly look into feeding her more then for sure. That is why I'm here, to learn!

I have the tank heated by lamp not pad, it usually stays 83-86 on the hot side and 79-81 on the cold, not much difference. It's very consistent, I have the light on a timer setup.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Chu I'll check out those links! Thank you!

I read that coconut husk material would cause lacerations but play sand wouldn't.. That's one reason I went with it. As mentioned in my second post, I do not feed in tank, so the chance of ingesting isnt as high?


Thanks for all the welcomes, and thanks for the info so far guys! Keep the responses coming I am here to learn not argue! :)

[Mikoh4792]

Wouldn't feeding in a separate container make it less easier to tame it? Every time you take it out of it's enclosure for handling it may associate that with feeding. I feed all my snakes in their enclosures and they are fine.

[sweatshirt]

Yeah I just use a paper towel/plate for my baby boa and she doesn't swallow her substrate :)

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Wouldn't feeding in a separate container make it less easier to tame it? Every time you take it out of it's enclosure for handling it may associate that with feeding. I feed all my snakes in their enclosures and they are fine.

I feel like this is just a personal thing. I believe it may OR may not effect anything. I kindof think when I pull It out it'll think whatever, when I place it in a separate container that probably smells like her last meal then she'll kindof think feeding time?
I feel like this is similar to cars, "I change my oil every 8,000 miles!" "you have to change it every 3,000 miles.". Does that make sense? I thinks it's all in the head maybe, just a personal idea?

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Yeah I just use a paper towel/plate for my baby boa and she doesn't swallow her substrate :)

I feed in a round tupperware like container with a folded papertowel on the bottom. No problems so far ;) ;)

I believe since she doesn't feed in tank its not as much of an issue, I'll continue researching it. However I do think the play sand retains moisture more, which isn't going to be good.

[Aaron_S]

I feel like this is just a personal thing. I believe it may OR may not effect anything. I kindof think when I pull It out it'll think whatever, when I place it in a separate container that probably smells like her last meal then she'll kindof think feeding time?
I feel like this is similar to cars, "I change my oil every 8,000 miles!" "you have to change it every 3,000 miles.". Does that make sense? I thinks it's all in the head maybe, just a personal idea?

You were on the right track at the start of your post. The car analogy killed you since it doesn't really compare.

It's a personal thing mostly. Some people do it for the sake of putting their mind at ease. That's all it is though. It can stress the snake out too.

One could argue, trying to stick your hand in the feeding tub after it's eaten could get a feeding response.

If the temperatures are correct, I'd feed it in it's tub. It'll pass substrate if it's ingested.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Okayy, If you say so :)
How often should she go to the bathroom? It seems like she's only gone to the bathroom once since I've gotten her, is it common for her to not often?

[Starbuck]

Irs unlikely that the cage DEFENSIVNESS has anything to do with feeding... this might be a problem later on (unlikely), but right now it just sounds like a scared baby snake. She will get better with time and age, but for now keep using the hook. Keep in mind that in the wild, anything handling a snake is probably trying to eat it :-)

Rosys are beautiful, awesome snakes. Have fun with yours!

[Lankyrob]

When you feed pinkies there isnt much "waste" for the snake to pass, i wouldnt worry too much :)

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Irs unlikely that the cage DEFENSIVNESS has anything to do with feeding... this might be a problem later on (unlikely), but right now it just sounds like a scared baby snake. She will get better with time and age

I agree 100%

And yes, aggression and defensive are two different things.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

When you feed pinkies there isnt much "waste" for the snake to pass, i wouldnt worry too much :)

Makes sense. Cool, thanks!

[Starbuck]

what color/locality is your rosy?
mine is a chocolate brown/light tan, with very solid definition between stripes

[ZeldaTheRosy]

http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh447/SurfinStud/38744737-911B-441C-9560-1C402CA3DFA9-2028-000002689116C00A.jpg

http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh447/SurfinStud/83B66F6E-FEF6-49AC-919F-4DB5789B3AE9-2028-0000026884DC3945.jpg

http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh447/SurfinStud/563CAE0B-219D-48A5-AE2B-5DEAE6E1C488-2028-00000268A1E1AEDE.jpg

Thought I'd throw in acouple snapshots for y'all. I love her colors! I can't wait to see her all grown up.

Locality I am not sure, her parents I believe are from harcaveur mountain range in AZ. I'll confirm this when I pick up some new foods for her.

[Starbuck]

very cute, she is sure to be a stunner when she grows up (is she a confirmed female?)
I know you have been advised to up your feeding schedule, but i just wanted to state that i do think she looks a little too lean for her size; do you have easy access to a gram scale to weigh her? I would definitely up her schedule to every 5-7 days, and as lankyrob suggested, try a larger prey item (up to 1.5 times her widest girth).

If i could have purchased my rosy from a baby (mine was a rehoming situation), i definitely would have gotten one of the brick reds, like yours :)

[ZeldaTheRosy]

I am not positive I guess. The breeder, my friend, writes sex, date of every feeding and amount/what fed. So I just assumed he knew what he was doing. But of course I am not certain I'll leave room for error.


I fed her my last 3 pinkies the other night (22nd) I plan to bump it up now to the next size(as y'all say 1.5 her size)
How many should I feed? We verified the diameter but what amount?

[BryanB]

I would go with 1 rat fuzzy every 5-7 days. if I am wrong I would like to know that seaming I may get a rosy very soon

[Starbuck]

If the snake is eating a prey item 1.5x her diameter, one prey item/5-7 days, as suggested, is sufficient. Over feeding a snake can be just as dangerous as under feeding.

you certainly COULD feed a rat pup/appropriately sized rat (instead of mice), but imo there is no NEED to. I have never met an ADULT rosy boa who could comfortable eat even a small rat (100 grams or so?), so if you chose to feet rats, you will likely never get beyond the weanling stage.

My 15 year old rosy eats 1-2 small mice every 10ish days. As stated above; there is no reason NOT to feed rats, though they do tend to be a bit more expensive than mice. Also, compare a rat and mouse of the same size (old mouse, baby rat), the mouse will have more bone mass and roughage. I believe it is really a personal choice, and neither is better than the other.

[Aaron_S]

If the snake is eating a prey item 1.5x her diameter, one prey item/5-7 days, as suggested, is sufficient. Over feeding a snake can be just as dangerous as under feeding...

I believe this to be poor information.

If you're feeding 1.5x diameter you should not be feeding the snake as frequently as 5 - 7 days. 7 - 10 days is much better.

The only time you feed more frequently is when the size of the prey is smaller.

Personally, I use weight to feed my animals and no longer care about the diameter. I roughly use 10% - 15% body weight.

No reason to not buy a simple kitchen scale for this reason if you're so inclined.

[Starbuck]

i think the 5-7 was mentioned because the snake was very young, under one year.

[smy_749]

I don't keep it so exact. I grab a mouse from the freezer, sometimes its a bit large, sometimes its a bit small. I feed when I remember to feed him (within reason, probably between 6 and 11 days). I don't see the harm in it .... Ofcourse if I had more snakes and some sort of breeding project going on I'd probably have more of a 'system' but for just a few pets, it works for me.

[Aaron_S]

i think the 5-7 was mentioned because the snake was very young, under one year.

Still shouldn't feed it larger meals if that's the frequency.

All my babies get fed as I mentioned above on a 5 day schedule.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Good reading. I'll keep all these comments in mind around feeding time and decide which works for me, they all seem to be preference anyways.

[Aaron_S]

Good reading. I'll keep all these comments in mind around feeding time and decide which works for me, they all seem to be preference anyways.

Preference is where you're wrong.

My method, through a lot of bookkeeping and trial and error I found that smaller meals roughly 10% - 15% of body weight had the snakes keeping the most amount of their meal for growth and the like.

I found larger meals left them digesting for too long and more lethargic and the growth rate wasn't as steady or as good as smaller meals. The snake wasted more of the meal.

This is just my findings and doesn't make it scientific but it's what I like to see in my collection.

[franks]

It looks like a borrego locale, but it is sooooo hard to tell between the minute differences. But my guess is borrego, maybe coastal.
Rosy boas have very small little heads at this age, but do not be fooled, they can put down decent sized prey. Ignore the size of the head and try to get something a little thicker than the largest part of your snake.
Regarding substrate, if you want to go with something natural, you can get stone dust or crushed granite. I use silt stones with stone dust on one half, and aspen on the other half. This is what it looks like:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g223/diehardislanders/IMAG0361.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/diehardislanders/media/IMAG0361.jpg.html)

[Chu'Wuti]

For all my setups, reptile or amphibian I bake all my substrate to "165*" to kill bacteria and eggs. Then after it COOLS I setup my aquariums. I don't store my dang snake at 165degrees!!!! Ha

I am greatly relieved! Whew! :-)

You're getting lots of advice and some good information. It can help to differentiate between advice and information. While I agree that overfeeding is not healthy--overfeeding young humans doesn't make them grow UP faster, it makes them obese, and the same applies to other animals--underfeeding isn't wise either. The 10-15% weight rule is a good one but I will add just a small tweak: one of the experts on this forum told me 10% for maintenance, 15% for steady growth at an appropriate rate. I feed juvies about 15%--obviously, it can be difficult to be exact as prey sizes vary some; I make it a rule never to go above 20% of the snake's body weight if I don't have something closer to 15%.

If I have to feed under 15%, I keep an eye on that juvie for early signs of hunting. That's a good reason for a range in the time between feedings. If I've had to feed something smaller, then feeding earlier might be good, especially for a juvie. So then feeding every 5 days is more appropriate than holding off to 7.

As the snake matures, I gradually reduce the meal size to about 10% of the adult body weight.

As for larger meals making the snake lethargic--absolutely! How do you feel after a huge feast? I don't feel like moving!

The less the snake moves around between meals, the more likely it is to become obese. Also, while feeding larger meals (aka power feeding) may bring it to sexual maturity faster, it isn't healthy; in fact, it's likely to contribute to decreased life span. I can be patient and wait for my snakes to achieve sexual maturity later when it means they will be healthier because I believe that a healthier father/mother will have healthier offspring.

Just my $0.2.

[drewkore]

I initially thought you may be a troll when you stated 165 degrees! Otherwise it sounds like you are on the right path. The only thing I would like to add is that as someone else already mentioned, I feel it is better to feed mice for the life of the rosy. Just my personal opinion based on my experience of many years of rosy keeping.

[Donnie]

Preference is where you're wrong.

My method, through a lot of bookkeeping and trial and error I found that smaller meals roughly 10% - 15% of body weight had the snakes keeping the most amount of their meal for growth and the like.

I found larger meals left them digesting for too long and more lethargic and the growth rate wasn't as steady or as good as smaller meals. The snake wasted more of the meal.

This is just my findings and doesn't make it scientific but it's what I like to see in my collection.

Do you use this method with various species and get the same results?

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Preference is where you're wrong.

My method, through a lot of bookkeeping and trial and error I found that smaller meals roughly 10% - 15% of body weight had the snakes keeping the most amount of their meal for growth and the like.

I found larger meals left them digesting for too long and more lethargic and the growth rate wasn't as steady or as good as smaller meals. The snake wasted more of the meal.

This is just my findings and doesn't make it scientific but it's what I like to see in my collection.

Went back and Reread an older post, alright makes more sense now. My girlfriends picking up some food for me on her way cross state to see me. I'll try to get ahold of a scale to get a good perspective of what 10-15% of Zelda is, and what it should look like as far as amount.

Just throwing some thoughts around it seems the easiest way to monitor it would be with a digital scale. Eyeballing it likely wouldn't be accurate maybe the mice weight is '+ -'at the time. I believe I am catching on now.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

That's a good question Donnie

[Aaron_S]

Went back and Reread an older post, alright makes more sense now. My girlfriends picking up some food for me on her way cross state to see me. I'll try to get ahold of a scale to get a good perspective of what 10-15% of Zelda is, and what it should look like as far as amount.

Just throwing some thoughts around it seems the easiest way to monitor it would be with a digital scale. Eyeballing it likely wouldn't be accurate maybe the mice weight is '+ -'at the time. I believe I am catching on now.

If it's slightly above or below the desired weight it's okay. I'd use my method as a guideline. It won't hurt the snake to be 20% if that's what you currently have.

For my personal use I have a rodent supplier. He's able to get me my rodents at a preferred weight. For example all my babies at a certain size are fed 30 - 40 grams rat and I ONLY buy that size.

[Aaron_S]

Do you use this method with various species and get the same results?

Yes I have. Multiple species seem to take very well with it. Due note, I've had more experienced with boas and pythons with this method as opposed to colubrids first hand but colubrids need to be fed more frequently anyway and I would suggest smaller prey items in that regard as well.

I even have friends who have taken to this method and have seen a noticeable weight gain in their animals over a small period of time. They will stop gaining so much and plateau in a bit and then shortly after it's time for a prey size increase.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Chu, wow, great clear write up. Based on your thinking, which I liked how you stated you "max%", and what % when/why, awesome!! Now my only question (I think, for now) : let's say I cannot get the % above "13" without jumping to "19" would it be better to under feed(still in range) rather than apart stuff her.


I did notice that for two nights after feeding her the 3 pinkies(her largest meal ever) I did not see her leave her hide spot aside from change positions inside. Thinking back, I haven't had her long, only acouple feedings I believe on 2 pinkies she was active the following night. I will have to pay attention to her behavior closer now to see what her norm is. I don't want an Obese snake.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

If it's slightly above or below the desired weight it's okay. I'd use my method as a guideline. It won't hurt the snake to be 20% if that's what you currently have.

For my personal use I have a rodent supplier. He's able to get me my rodents at a preferred weight. For example all my babies at a certain size are fed 30 - 40 grams rat and I ONLY buy that size.

Well, the breeder I know, whom I got the rosy from breeds and sells $500 bucks of various sized rodents. I believe it's rats only.

[Aaron_S]

Chu, wow, great clear write up. Based on your thinking, which I liked how you stated you "max%", and what % when/why, awesome!! Now my only question (I think, for now) : let's say I cannot get the % above "13" without jumping to "19" would it be better to under feed(still in range) rather than apart stuff her.


I did notice that for two nights after feeding her the 3 pinkies(her largest meal ever) I did not see her leave her hide spot aside from change positions inside. Thinking back, I haven't had her long, only acouple feedings I believe on 2 pinkies she was active the following night. I will have to pay attention to her behavior closer now to see what her norm is. I don't want an Obese snake.

It depends on the snake and species to make that jump. The snake will adjust and you'll see a noticeable growth spurt and most likely a shed cycle with the prey size jump. It won't harm the snake to eat a 19% meal, even for a couple feedings.

It's tricky when switching prey sizes because the animal may be too big for one meal and too small for another so just take whatever you feel most comfortable with.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

If it's slightly above or below the desired weight it's okay. I'd use my method as a guideline. It won't hurt the snake to be 20% if that's what you currently have.


This is pretty close to answering my question to Chu,

So would it be "better" the feed at 19+% when I must, or settle for an above 10% below 14%?
I hope im laying that question out clearly, I know numbers and get confusing.

Just read your post #40, so basically just try to responsibly judge it based on how she accepts it, sort of.

I will state, right now my questions are simply hypothetical; I haven't even begun weighing her or meals. I will track down a good scale to use before next feeding; on my birthday June 30th.

[Chu'Wuti]

ZeldaTheRosy, I agree with Aaron_S: It won't hurt the snake to be 20% if that's what you currently have. That is to say, occasional higher-weight meals are not going to hurt a growing juvie or even an adult.

I would rather feed a little too much to a juvie than feed too little. So 19+% is fine if that's all you have.

basically just try to responsibly judge it based on how she accepts it, sort of.
Yes.

This is a pretty accurate scale that isn't too expensive: Amazon.com: My Weigh KD-7000 Digital Stainless-Steel Food Scale,Black: Home & Kitchen (http://www.amazon.com/My-Weigh-KD-7000-Digital-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000EVHHJC/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1372525436&sr=1-1&keywords=kd-7000+scale)

I have one, and it has served me well for several years.

[Pareeeee]

You may have already been given this info, I just saw this thread now, but I don't want to read through every single post, here goes.

I hope you switch from sand. I bought sand and loved the look of it/ease of cleaning, but noticed it was getting in between his scales. I read that this can cause irritation for the snake. If you do change, I suggest aspen, not coco husk, since coco husk maintains moisture. Which brings me to my second point. Be sure you keep his humidity low, small water dish on the cool side, plenty of ventilation. Rosies like approx 30%.

Warm side should be 85-90F and cool side 75-80, respectively. One of the few species I would recommend a heat lamp for, since it helps keep the enclosure dry.

Be sure you are feeding large enough prey. Mice should be the width of the widest part of the snake's body. It's great that she's on frozen mice. Mine eats like a pig all summer, then goes off food for about 6 months every winter. Because he does this I have learned to let him eat as much as he wants. Not all rosies will do the 'no eating' thing, but don't be alarmed if the appetite dims around October.

Also, young snakes need to eat more than adults, don't skimp on the food please :)

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Cool, as mentioned earlier in my thread(and other research) sand seemed just fine, aside from ingesting something feed and being sharp. As I mentioned I don't feed in tank so that is not an issue, but the sand in the scales is another issue I'd like to avoid; ill look into this change. Coco husk is suppose to also be sharp, sharper than sand, so of course that's a no not. Ill check out the aspen.


Yep, I'm learning alot more as far as feeding goes. "Everyone" made it seem like snakes eat only on a monthly basis! Who knew these things ate weekly! ;);)
I am upping my feedings since posting this. From 13 days, I am at 9 days right now, and I'll cut it to 7 day intervals.
I over thought it, and said I didn't want to feed her at 13 days and then suddenly at 7, I wanted to attempt a quick way to smoothly jump into a shorter interval. Does that make sense?

As far as water dish goes, I haven't spoken much about. I made a water dish from clay, it's 6 inches long, 3 inches wide and less than an inch deep. My routine is feed the snake and have full water bowl, the water evaporated pretty quickly 3 days, maybe alittle water on day 4, but day 5-6-7 is Bone dry, then back to water and food.
(the water has been consistent/the feedings were not weekly until now)
It seeeeems fine.
I have two tanks of Cuban tree frogs who I monitor humidity religiously for, they tend to hover on the low sideo 70%, I have their tanks covered so they retain the moisture. From seeing how "wet" their enclosure is and how the humidity is effected I believe the Rosys enclosure, completely open except for the lamp sitting ontop, and only a small water bowl only sometimes filled I believe humidity is no issue.
My idea behind this is, even though the water bowl has a fair amount of surface area I believe the dry days help keep the tanks moisture down.
Also when filling it I'm real anal about not spilling any water in the sand no overflow ever.

[Mikoh4792]

Aspen is sharper and rougher then cocohusk. The cocohusk I use is really soft and and smooth. You can also use cocohusk dry.

Compare this

http://www.boumylanka.com/images/products/5-bales-1.jpg

to this

http://www.petsolutions.com/images/Products/97675108a.jpg

[Pareeeee]

Aspen is sharper and rougher then cocohusk. The cocohusk I use is really soft and and smooth. You can also use cocohusk dry.

Compare this

http://www.boumylanka.com/images/products/5-bales-1.jpg

to this

http://www.petsolutions.com/images/Products/97675108a.jpg

Either way coco husk keeps in moisture which is a bad thing for rosies.

I use aspen for both my snakes and it works great, remember snakes have 'armor' which keeps that kind of stuff from hurting them. Only substrates that can actually penetrate or damage that armour is sand, since it's small and abrasive. Gravel is bad too.

I've never seen plain coco husk that looks like that anyway, that looks like 'eco earth' which is technically ground up coco husk. I believe this is what OP is talking about:
http://www.herpsupplies.com/images/PT2785/coco_husk.jpg

[Mikoh4792]

Either way coco husk keeps in moisture which is a bad thing for rosies.

I use aspen for both my snakes and it works great, remember snakes have 'armor' which keeps that kind of stuff from hurting them. Only substrates that can actually penetrate or damage that armour is sand, since it's small and abrasive. Gravel is bad too.

I've never seen plain coco husk that looks like that anyway, that looks like 'eco earth' which is technically ground up coco husk. I believe this is what OP is talking about:
http://www.herpsupplies.com/images/PT2785/coco_husk.jpg

How low humidity do rosies need? I can make an enclosure keep a steady 30-40% humidity without any misting using cocohusk.

In that picture the cocohusk is still not as sharp and pointy as aspen bedding.

[Starbuck]

As far as water dish goes, I haven't spoken much about. I made a water dish from clay, it's 6 inches long, 3 inches wide and less than an inch deep. My routine is feed the snake and have full water bowl, the water evaporated pretty quickly 3 days, maybe alittle water on day 4, but day 5-6-7 is Bone dry, then back to water and food.
(the water has been consistent/the feedings were not weekly until now)
It seeeeems fine.
I have two tanks of Cuban tree frogs who I monitor humidity religiously for, they tend to hover on the low sideo 70%, I have their tanks covered so they retain the moisture. From seeing how "wet" their enclosure is and how the humidity is effected I believe the Rosys enclosure, completely open except for the lamp sitting ontop, and only a small water bowl only sometimes filled I believe humidity is no issue.
My idea behind this is, even though the water bowl has a fair amount of surface area I believe the dry days help keep the tanks moisture down.
Also when filling it I'm real anal about not spilling any water in the sand no overflow ever.

With an open screen top enclosure, i do not think humidity will be too much of a problem. I would ALWAYS make sure your animal has access to drinking water. If you are concerned about humidity, you can try a smaller water dish with less surface area. You will have to fill it more frequently, but smaller surface area means less evaporation and less overall humidity.

I keep my rosy on aspen and have never had any problems with sharpness/ingestion of substrate.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Aspen will be my next choice; during other research on other forums and search engines more often it is said that coco husk is the sharpest, aspen isn't. I really hate seeing multiple people on different pages about the same stuff.
I believe, as small as she is the sand isn't an issue. I see what y'all state, it getting between scales and such, would this be more of a concern as she ages, shed by shed? Could her scales currently be so small, the gap between each being even smaller to accept sand particulates? Could that be logical?

Even if I had her current bowl full constantly I don't think it'd jump humidity up, I should check, but I know I'm not up to 70% like my CTF tank.
It almost seemed more natural to me that she wouldn't always be able to find water, and two days without water wouldn't really be effecting her at all health wise. I do not mind leaving water there full time; just thought its kindof help her find a routine if she realized there was no water except around food/digesting time. Sometimes I feel small niches like that could have results; then other times I feel like I over complicate the whole situation(not that it's an issue)

[Mikoh4792]

aspen is sharper for sure. I have both aspen and cocohusk for my snakes.

Although for a burrowing snake, I would go with aspen since it tends to hold burrows a lot better. This way your snake can use the same burrows instead of making a new one each time the substrate collapses.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

aspen is sharper for sure. I have both aspen and cocohusk for my snakes.

Although for a burrowing snake, I would go with aspen since it tends to hold burrows a lot better. This way your snake can use the same burrows instead of making a new one each time the substrate collapses.


Interesting, I like the holding the burrow part...

My brothers KSB burrows constantly, always in hiding under sand; however my rosy does not ever dig to burrow it seems. I have two caves for her that she stays in and arranges the sand how she needs, but she never tends to burrow. Is it "safe" to say she is not a burrowing personality? Could my sand just not be allowing her to actually make a burrow?

She was digging towards the base of acouple rocks, making a crater and then filling it in, maybe she was trying to burrow there?

[Mikoh4792]

Interesting, I like the holding the burrow part...

My brothers KSB burrows constantly, always in hiding under sand; however my rosy does not ever dig to burrow it seems. I have two caves for her that she stays in and arranges the sand how she needs, but she never tends to burrow. Is it "safe" to say she is not a burrowing personality? Could my sand just not be allowing her to actually make a burrow?

She was digging towards the base of acouple rocks, making a crater and then filling it in, maybe she was trying to burrow there?

It could be the case.

I've heard stories of people keeping their snakes on aspen or cocohusk and made the switch to repti-bark. The snakes stopped burrowing on repti-bark. Maybe your snake just doesn't like to burrow in sand.

[Lankyrob]

It could be the case.

I've heard stories of people keeping their snakes on aspen or cocohusk and made the switch to repti-bark. The snakes stopped burrowing on repti-bark. Maybe your snake just doesn't like to burrow in sand.

My corns burrow in their reptibark, just sayin'

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Well, we will see if that is that case. I plan to change to something, apen likely. But not right away so when i make the switch I'll see.

[smy_749]

Aspen holds burrows ridiculously well. I haven't used it in a while, but decided for the new additions I'd buy it for now. Even when they just slither around it shows a perfect indentation of their body.

[Mikoh4792]

Aspen holds burrows ridiculously well. I haven't used it in a while, but decided for the new additions I'd buy it for now. Even when they just slither around it shows a perfect indentation of their body.

Same here. I think it's because the particles are long and thin, so they stack up and interweave with each other. Where as in bedding such as cocohusk, the particles are thick and short so any burrow they make just collapses on itself.

[Amadeus]

Cypress mulch also holds burrows together nicely. But It comes damp so..... No go on the cypress....

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Alright guys, I'm thinking I'll need some help on temps.
Today I went into the tank while she was in the cold side hide and I was enlarging the hot sides hide. I felt the sand/rock underneath my heat source(lamp) and I was not impressed. I did not check readings as I just started poking around, but really I would call it warm at best. Ill take reading to verify my spidey senses.

What do you guys use as a heat source? I currently have a heat lamp that was great brand new, kept me right at 85*side and coldside 75* but I don't think it's touching mid 80s now. I think it lost its umph...

Any recommendation on maintaining temps on a budget let me know!

[ZeldaTheRosy]

2" above substrate directly under light register 86*

Substrate in area directly under light registered 83*

Cold side substrate registered 77*

Found patches of substrate 72* and 71* in cold side.

She is staying in the cold side hide, is my concern of temp no concern simply cause she isn't seeking the heat?

[nyx]

2" above substrate directly under light register 86*

Unless she's levitating, this reading can be dismissed. Hot spot of 85°F recommended, usually under substrate to allow the animal to self-adjust as needed (pushing aside substrate, etc).

UTH is typically used with ground-dwelling snakes, as the heat radiates upwards evenly and consistently. Heat lamps are occasionally for arboreals (climbing to self-regulate) and lizards.

[aneezh789]

Hey guys what can I feed my Red Sand Boa when there are no mice available?

[kelzerman]

I am surprised nobody else asked this, but is that a real cactus?

[MizCandice]

@ Aneezh- equivalent sized rat pups?