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Old 06-06-03, 01:01 PM   #46 (permalink)
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i dont realy like corn snakes(no affence)there just so natural looking to me(not to mention expinsive over here).I realy like chamelions,so could some one give me TRUE information on them?
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Old 06-06-03, 01:08 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Have you seen the variety of colors in corns? There are so many different colors to choose from. I guarintee you will find a morph that you will like! How much more can a corn be compared to a cham? I have no experiance with chams so I will let someone else give you advice on them. But I do know they are not a good species for beginners!
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Old 06-06-03, 01:09 PM   #48 (permalink)
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here are a couple care sheets and info pages i came across..

http://www.chameleonpages.com/

http://www.icomm.ca/~dragon/cham.htm

http://home.att.net/~chameleons/index.html

Hope these help, i do reccomend that you READ as much as you possibly can.. Not to sound rude, but if you think you have read it all and have it all down, read it again.. Good Luck!!

Matt
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Old 06-06-03, 01:10 PM   #49 (permalink)
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well see at my petshop the only corns they have are white and yellow and are 49.99 and chamelions are only 29.99 see the difference?I like them both but the lix\zard is so more nice looking in MY opinion.can someone give me info on how to breed and take care of them?
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Old 06-06-03, 01:11 PM   #50 (permalink)
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thanks
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Old 06-06-03, 01:14 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Keeping Chameleons in Captivity

by Lynda Horgan




















HOUSING:
An aquarium with a screen lid is appropriate. A vita-lite (full spectrum light) should be placed over the screen (no glass between the light and the lizard). Adding an incandescent light at one end provides a basking spot where the lizard may warm up. This creates a warm end and a cool end to the cage so that the lizard may move about to adjust its body temperature. A basking (incandescent) light is not needed by all types of chameleons. Humidity and temperatures vary with the species kept.
Branches of asoze that their feet can grip easily should be added. Real or artificial plants should be provided to give the chameleon a place to hide. If you use real ones make sure that you wash them first to remove insecticide or fertilizer residue. Also make sure that they are not poisonous.
A substrate is not necessary. Some substrates can cause hemipene plugs and infections and can be ingested along with the food which can result in intestinal impactions. Mactac attached UNDER the cage will prevent the chameleon from constantly trying to get through the bottom glass.


FOOD AND WATER:
Crickets, wax worms, and silk worms dusted with calcium and vitamin D and a vitamin/mineral powder will provide the main diet. The food should be of a size that the lizard can easily digest. A chameleon will likely consume 10 to 12 crickets 3 times a week. Feed babies daily. Some chameleons will become omnivore upon maturity and are then provided with vegetables, fruit, plant leaves, etc.
Water should be provided by a drip system or by misting the plants and sides of the cage. This should be done every day. Do it more than once a day for babies. A water dish may be placed in the cage if extra humidity is needed.

HEALTH:
When selecting a chameleon look to see that the eyes are not sunken in but rather protruding. Choose a chameleon that has no deep longitudinal ridges in its tail. Even a sick chameleon can have plump body. The soft pads on its head should not be sunken in either. Look for alertness and good color. Check for swellings, deformities of the arms or lower jaw, and for any apparent external damage.
A fecal sample can be checked by a veterinarian for parasites.





ODD PIECES OF INTERESTING INFORMATION:
Never forcibly remove a chameleon from a branch. Let it "walk" off on it own. If you force it you could cause damage to its joints, toenails or even break bones.
Feed your insects well. What goes into them will go into your chameleon.
Always quarantine a new chameleon for at least 6 weeks. Some can carry viruses, parasites or bacteria that can be passed on to other chameleons.
Most chameleons should be house individually.
Some chameleons have a drop reflex when handled so be careful that they don't just suddenly let go and drop to the ground. Some run blindly to escape.
Some chameleons "waddle-walk" in an attempt to not be noticed. (Back and forth rocking motion with eventual ,movement forward.)






BODY LANGUAGE AND COLOR:
Gaping, hissing, bright colors with a vertically flattened body held at an angle to the opponent, a high stance, tail curled when done by a male indicates aggression.
Pale colors and gaping with a thinned body indicates overheating.
A dark coloration with an expanded body that is slanted to catch the rays of the sun indicate desire to warm up.
Pale coloration, tail curled, body resting on the branch indicates desire to sleep.
Bright colors and a bobbing head when done by the male indicates desire to mate.
Females darken their color, hiss and gape and rock back and forth when repelling the male.
A females color will indicate her willingness to mate, and a different color and pattern will show that she is gravid.



The above information on keeping chameleons in captivity has come mostly from my own experience. Others may have their own way of keeping them, but this has worked for me. I have bred several kinds of chameleons and kept some kinds for extended periods of time.
I hope this will provide enough information that people will be able to successfully keep their chameleons in captivity as well.
Good Luck! Happy herping! Lynda Horgan
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Old 06-06-03, 01:17 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I can give you TRUE information on MY chameleon.

He's a 2 year old veiled chameleon. I have had him since the beginning of February THIS year.

In the time that I have had him, he has had TWO back to back respiratory infections, and has not eaten on his own since March, 2003. I have been force feeding or syringe feeding him since then. Same with his water.

When I got him, he had been abandoned by his previous owner...so he was an 'impulsive" decision on my part.

His previous owner kept him in a glass tank, with peat moss substrate...no thermometre or humidity gauge....anyway...what I CAN tell you, without a doubt...is you need to be prepared for the UNEXPECTED with chameleons. The hunger strikes, the URI's, etc, etc.
I have spent well over $1000 since February, correcting the previous owners mistakes, and changing everything about his enclosure and surroundings.

It's not for sure that you would run into this type of thing...but it IS something you need to be prepared for!!

Chameleons require a <u>high</u> SCREEN cage...at least three sides. Live plants, that are pesticide free. temperature and humidity gauges, a varied diet of live insects. UVA and UVB lighting. Temperature guages are NOT optional and they require gradients of....85-95 in the basking area. With temps dropping to about 65 degrees at night, vit. and mineral supplements....the list goes on and on.
You must maintain proper humidity levels as well.

The other key factor is, typically chameleons don't like to be handled. They are NOT social animals, and must be kept ONE per cage.
If you get a very young cham, they can be fragile....so get one that is well established.

I LOVE my cham dearly...but I had NO idea what I was getting myself into when I brought him home.
The initial cost of a cham that you have to buy (I got mine and his "tank" for free) is a verrrry small fraction of what you will spend to keep him healthy.
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Old 06-06-03, 01:23 PM   #53 (permalink)
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does anyone have pics and more info on chamelions?
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Old 06-06-03, 01:28 PM   #54 (permalink)
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<b>An aquarium with a screen lid is appropriate</b><------ INCORRECT info. Aquariums are only suitable for the leaf chams. Other species with tend to get URI's if kept in aquariums.

<b>A chameleon will likely consume 10 to 12 crickets 3 times a week.</b><----- When my guy was eating crickets, he was eating 12 to 15 larges crix per DAY, 6 days a week!


<b>Water should be provided by a drip system or by misting the plants and sides of the cage. This should be done every day</b><------this should be done TWO or THREE times per day, for 10 to 15 minutes per day, with hot water.

This website has EXCELLENT information: http://groups.msn.com/ChameleonParadise
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Old 06-06-03, 01:30 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Here's a picture of my guy (I called him Gizmo, since my mum was so adament (sp?) on getting him a name... when I told her the name I chose she said "Too late, I've already named him Rocky.") courtesy of Trace! I'll be getting more pictures soon for you, Trace.

He eats like a pig, which rules, cuz he never lets me down when showing people how they eat ...

Good luck with your choice Ballpython, and make sure you do read that care sheet that was posted and the links that Matt gave! After reading those, you might want to ask a few more specified questions, it might make it easier for people to answer!! Also, check out the chameleon forum. There's TONS of questions & answers there, and you might get more responses after asking your questions there.

Kate
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Old 06-06-03, 01:36 PM   #56 (permalink)
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i was reading up on them and veiled chamelions can come in many colors including purple and most have multicolored spots or stripes and the adults are 6 inches to 18 inches
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Old 06-06-03, 01:37 PM   #57 (permalink)
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If you only read PART of the above sites info...pick these parts....

5 most commonly asked questions:
http://groups.msn.com/ChameleonParad...questions.msnw

Do's and Don'ts: http://groups.msn.com/ChameleonParadise/dodontlist.msnw

Supply list:
http://groups.msn.com/ChameleonParad...upplylist.msnw
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Old 06-06-03, 01:38 PM   #58 (permalink)
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does anyone know how to breed them?
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Old 06-06-03, 01:40 PM   #59 (permalink)
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also would they be ok in a very large rubber maid(55-60 gallons)???
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Old 06-06-03, 01:44 PM   #60 (permalink)
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no, i wouldnt reccomend using a rubbermaid for them. Building your own enclosure is REALLY easy. You can see the one that Kate has built above. Personally i made mine out of 2x2s and Screen.. 3 sides screened.. Its really simple :/ Good Luck..
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