Join Date: May-2003
Corn Snake Care Sheet
Cornsnakes are very interesting and loving snakes. They will never bite you (unless provoked or are afraid), and are very easy to take care of. If you are a cornsnake owner, or are aspiring to be one, I wish you the best of luck and congratulate you for picking the best pet snake out there! Also, please do not rely solely on this page! Research your pet, and even ask your local breeders any questions you might have!
Adult corns will grow to be 3 to 5 feet long. The longest ever recorded is 6 feet, so don't be surprised if your snake gets kind of big. It takes them about two years or so to get this length, but many take longer if they are exposed to the lower temperatures, such as 70 degrees.
Cornsnakes will live anywhere from 15 to 20 years, if they are cared for in the proper way, which is not that hard to do.
Their natural range is Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Tennesee, Alabama, and the rest of the southeastern US.
Corns are constrictors, and do not have venom.
They are nice 'handling pets', which basically means you can hold them without them feeling intimidated.
Cornsnakes will do well in almost any container, provided it is big enough. Baby cornsnakes will do well in a 5 or 10 gallon tank. Breeders, who house hundreds of snakes at a time, use boxes. If you use a box, don't use a lamp or heat pad because it may catch fire. Juveniles are happy in 10-15 gallon tanks or sweater boxes. Adults can be housed in 20-25 gallon tanks, or sweaterboxes. And, as always MAKE SURE IT IS ESCAPE-PROOF!!!
Click Here to see a drawing of my cage setup!
There are five basic things a cornsnake needs in his house:
-A secure lid
-A hide box
-A clean water dish
Corn snakes are very good at escaping from their cages. If there is a way to get out, they will. This is easily solved by making sure your cage lid is hooked down, or your box lid is taped shut.
Cornsnakes like to hide and almost anything will please them. I have two types of hiding places for my snake. They are shredded paper on one end, and on the other a hide box. My hide box is just the cut off bottom of a yogurt container, with a little opening in the front. My corn seems to like both areas, but others may prefer one or the other. I've noticed they like hiding places with low celings.
Cornsnakes need water in their tank all the time. If it gets dry or soiled, it needs to be cleaned immediately. Water dishes come in handy during shedding, because the snake will submerge itself right before. Therefore, the dish should be big enough so the snake can submerge its whole body.
Bedding for a cornsnake can be newspaper, aspen shavings, astro-turf, carpet, or papertowels. Gravel and sand are not good for bedding because they take moisture out of your snake's skin. Cedar shavings SHOULD NOT be used because they cause respiratory problems. Also, bedding from the forest or yard should not be used because it may cause respiratory or mite problems. If you buy bedding from a store, make sure it doesn't give off any dust. This too will cause breathing problems.
There is a lot of controversy over whether or not your snake needs a temperature gradient. I've heard some experienced breeders say you don't need a temperature gradient, but the temperature should be constant. Fluxuating temperatures cause a high amount of stress for your snake. For babies, the temperature should be 80-85. Older snakes will do ok in 73-80 degrees. If you would like to provide a gradient, go ahead! The temps should be no more then 77-85 in the warm end and no less than 70-77 in the cool end. Snakes like to choose their own temperature. But, if you do, make sure to provide a hide box in both ends because shy snakes will stick with their hide box even if it is too hot.
A healthy cornsnake diet consists of only mice. They get all the nutrition they need in a mouse. Live mice can do major damage to an unhungry snake, and pre-killed mice cost much less than live.