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Old 12-06-17, 08:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
akane
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Join Date: Nov-2013
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Re: Lighting With Little Heat

You are using incandescent? Cause that's not very useful unless you want heat from it and in that case 60w is way too high for a 10g without something to control its' output. 20w is often too hot of the heat producing bulbs for a 10g without a thermostat or reducing it somehow. You need heat without light or at least the darkened reptile bulbs (usually don't go below 40w so thermostat needed) to run them all night and then usually light without heat for the daytime. Unless you want a daytime increase in heat or run your night/dark on a timer that swaps the bulb. Otherwise a fluorescent bulb is most commonly used for light separate from the heat source on snakes. You can screw a compact fluorescent to an incandescent socket. It shouldn't take more than 20w for enough light on a 10g. I'm not sure a screw in base comes with any UV like the tubes can.

The UV halogens will also put out heat like an incandescent but I find more sizes. It's one of my exceptions to separate heat and light sources. I have an 11w UV halogen bulb I use for small tanks or small heat increases like the gecko tanks and I had it on a baby corn snake in a 10g recently but only for daytime. Crested geckos are fine at room temp overnight. One of my adult corn snakes runs 50w CHE (ceramic heat emitter) at night and then a 50w UV daylight bulb with a timer on her 46gallon but her tank is big enough to replicate a cooler night time temp that way. Most of my others that need heat 24/7 have fluorescent tubes for the day and CHE running all the time so I just have to put one fixture on a timer.

If you really have a heat buildup problem already in a small enclosure or one you want brightly lit the led bulbs put out practically no heat and most won't add more than a couple degrees to even small, low ventilation containers.
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